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Washer Repair

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I have a Whirlpool Cabrio top loader HE machine. When it goes to sensing mode the driver motor will hum

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Old 02-15-2017, 04:22 PM
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Default Need some trouble shooting help
Model Number: WTW5550XW0   Brand: Whirlpool   Age: 5 - 10 years   

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I have a Whirlpool Cabrio top loader HE machine. When it goes to sensing mode the driver motor will hum loudly and only spin very slow until it stops and just hums. I've already tried a capacitor, and a used driver motor from a working machine and still have the same exact results. Also Once the motor starts humming I cant turn the machine off with the switch, I have to unplug the power cord.
I can turn the drum easily by hand so theres no binding or bearing issue there.
I was told by someone else that had an HE machine theres did the same thing and a clutch fixed. I don't see a clutch in the break down for my unit.
Any input would be greatly appreciated!


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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 02-15-2017, 08:39 PM
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The washer has a decent error code recall function, to see them you'd need to enter diagnostics. That would be helpful and likely easier than me asking you 4-5 questions. Retrieve those codes first. Then try the auto diagnostic test and see if it goes through. The steps it follows are in the manual below.

There is also a manual test mode, you'll need to lock the lid before it'll allow you to start the spin or agitate tests. Do not do the calibrate test unless you've recorded the codes as it will erase them as part of the test.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oBihToN6dxs This is same process for you.

Here it is on paper.
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/92...?page=3#manual

Might be easier to follow. Pg 3 for how to enter. Codes start on Pg 6. Each code is "FxEx" with "x" being a #. The grey/white squares shown with each error are the lights flashing under your knob to ID the error if you do not have a display.

Don't base a repair strictly on a code, they are not all as cut and dry as they seem but they may help us at least.
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Old 03-12-2017, 01:51 PM
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Thank you, this was helpful. Also sorry for the delay in my response. Ive finally gotten around to working on it, AGAIN. I found the technician manual and here's where I'm at.
I've replaced the Motor and capacitor....still not fixed

What I've found is the unit will go through all the manual test modes, (high spin, low spin, agitate, shift and ect) and works fine/passes, I clear the faults and then I can actually do a few back to back loads with no issues.

but next time I go to use it, it wont work. What's happening is during sensing, after about 2-3 sensing spins of the drum it will make a load click and then the motor hums loudly and only turns slowly (why I originally suspected capacitor or motor) . When this occurs the power button does not shut it off either. I have to pull the power plug to make it stop. (I've also check and confirmed proper AC voltage)
Then I go through all the testing in the tech manual as instructed for the code that it logs, F1 E2 motor control fault, and it passes all the trouble shooting.
Ive also gone through all the trouble shooting for the shifter and everything passes, this trouble shooting includes all wiring, voltage and circuit tests.

Now what I've found is that it fails an automatic test mode and Calibration mode, it logs fault F1 E1 (Main control fault) for both of those. Trouble shooting this fault leads to replacing main control. but I've also read that as long as my green LED is on the control is good.

Any thoughts (hopefully I made some sense) I don't want to throw a main control at it and find its not fixed. But the manual test mode proves that all the other parts... motor, shifter, capacitor, water valves, gear box and ect are working. It seems the machine only acts up when it has to perform modes automatically.
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Old 03-12-2017, 05:33 PM
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The green LED is just verification of main control DC transformer function I think. Not necessarily of actual control function. If I had to guess I'd say you do indeed have a bad main board.

I'm not sure if this applies to youor machine or not but one thing to look for on these is a break-in the red wire that goes to the motor. On a bunch of them they left a large coil of wire clipped to the bottom edge of the tub at the front and that wire tended to break. It reproduced some of the symptoms you are seeing and is worth looking for.
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Old 03-21-2017, 03:47 PM
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I have a similar problem, but I get an F5 E1 error code (lid lock switch) which can show up for many problems. It just says the lid won't lock so the machine can't run if there is a problem. My motor hums and won't turn unless I remove the belt, (and then it is slow) when I force it to run by manually closing the lid lock switch. ( I have it hanging on the harness outside the machine so I can access it) My machine won't turn off either once I get the motor to start unless I unplug it. I can get the motor to run fine even with the belt on if I apply 120V directly to the red and white or the Yellow and white terminals at the motor. This will cause the motor to run either CW or CCW at full speed. When trying to run from the main board with the harness, The motor is only getting 102V, so it is not enough voltage to get it to run. It hums loudly as it tries to turn. Capacitor is fine. I am suspecting the main board, but not sure. Maybe together we can figure it out. Don't know if the main board controls voltage or if it just switches it on and off. Need to figure out what causes the voltage drop. Somewhere, the main board senses a problem, thus, knowing this, it won't allow the lid to lock.
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