I have a Maytag Centennial Series MVWC350AW0

Yesterday it started doing something weird. We tried to start it, a few clicks and then the Lid Lock light started to flash and it doesn’t do anything after that.

I find the instructions on how to put it into diagnostics mode. It shows the same code all the time and I can’t decipher it at all per the instructions. I got the same code when I first went into it. And then I ran the self-diagnostics and it repeated the same code.

During the self-diagnostics I have a chart that tells you what should be happening during each lighting sequence and it seems like the barrel will spin a little but then some clicking goes on and then the lid lock starts blinking through the rest of the diagnostics. The water turns on and off, the unit tries to spin and it does for a very little time, it never agitates, and then the water drains. It also takes much longer to complete, I’m guessing because of the almost immediate lid lock light blinking that something bad is going on.

After it’s done, the same diagnostics code is displayed And this is the part that is confusing.

After I get into the diagnostics mode I check the error codes by turning the knob until DONE is lit and press start.

Once I press start, ALL lights Blink, Blink pause, Blink, Blink, pause and it will continue to do this until I turn the knob one time.

At the first turn I get the follow code:

My washer has the following lights:

SENSING – WASH – RINSE – SPIN – DONE – (LID LOCK)

So I’m told this is: F – 8 – 4 – 2 – 1 – (Lid Lock)

SENSING + DONE (pause) SPIN

(I think this means F1E2)

And it continues to repeat this until I turn the knob again for the next code which is:

SENSING+SPIN (Pause) DONE

(I think this is F2E1)

Is that correct?

And if so it’s telling me that:

F1E2 = A Centennial washer motor control fault. The Motor control is interfaced into the main washer control.

And

F2E1 = A Centennial washer control key has been pressed for more than 15 seconds.

(But I’m not pressing anything during any of the diagnostics runs. I’m waiting for everything to end which takes FOREVER) (15 minutes or longer)

Can someone help me to know if I’m reading this correctly, and if so, what does this all mean?

A bad Motor? I see a bunch of people saying that it’s almost always a bad shifter. I would suspect that might be the case since I can hear the barrel spin a tiny bit (Very tine, but I hear the motor turn on and do one of those 1/ 2 second thrust spins), but never agitate like it’s stuck in that one mode during the diagnostics.

Ugh… I just want to know what I should be buying here to fix this unit.

I already looked at the motor, it smells a bit HOT but not a burn electrical smell. As for everything else, all wires are connected and nothing is corroded away or hanging out of place. And the belt looks like it’s brand new. So it’s defiantly something mechanical or the main brain of the unit went haywire.

I’m pointing towards the Shifter Module, or the Motor.

HELP!!!

Thanks for anything you can offer so I can get this thing fixed!!!

Take Care, Tom.