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Joined: 1/7/2015(UTC)
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Currently, the washer does nothing when plugged in and turning the selector knob. This is a basic top-load Whirlpool Model WTW57ESVW1.
This washer occasionally would start the agitate cycle out of order. It would occasionally not start, but about two weeks ago, the washer would not start no matter how much I fooled around with it.
I ordered lid switch assembly PN 8318084 after observing the existing part didn't seem to want to make contact with the plastic brackets engaged. I could get the "click" manually (using my hands vice using the metal lid bracket). I ordered a new one, installed it, and the washer would not start. By the way, the replacement part in darker gray PN 8318084 has shorter fins and doesn't seem to cradle the metal lid bracket as well.)
I ordered timer PN W10177827 and installed it. Washer would not start.
I checked:
the harness connectors to make sure they were seated properly
the center rod of the timer to make sure the knob grasped it
twisted/pulled out the knob to check operation
voltage across outlet (>110V)
voltage across the first harness connector up stream of the lid switch (>110V)
for continuity across the upstream lid switch connector, very faint positive
tried to bypass lid switch, nothing
From the first harness connector after the wall plug, a white wire enters the body of the washer and the gray wire travels to the lid switch.
It feels like a common problem with this model (from reading blogs) but I don't see solutions that trend. Please help, my laundry piles are getting scary. :-)
Thank you,
Nikki
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 3/29/2009(UTC)
Posts: 11,699
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I would have suggested changing the timer if you had not already done so.
If you are certain you are getting power to the timer and it won't even start the fill process try changing the water level switch and/or the temp selection switch. Just an educated guess because not even filling is very unusual if the timer is ok.
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Rank: Member
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I could put one probe into the connector going to the timer, but wasn't sure where to put the second probe. How do I know the timer is receiving power? I have a Harbor Freight $5 multimeter. Is there a wiring diagram available? Thank you.
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 3/29/2009(UTC)
Posts: 11,699
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You should be able to trace the power supply line into the console. You can disconnect it and test the terminals from the outlet using the AC volt meter on the meter. ((I use those Harbor Freight meters all the time, they work fine. When they break just get another one).
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Rank: Member
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In Amazon, the reviews for Temp Selection Switch PNW10248240 had several entries talking about cleaning the contacts. I'm going to try that now.
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Rank: Member
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I busted the lid switch, so I jumpered the hot leads. I took the connectors off the temp selection switch W10248240, cleaned them and re-attached them. Then I took the larger connector from the timer and tested various holes. I used the grey for one probe and touched the other holes. I think 3 or 4 have >110V. When I reattached the larger connector, it didn't seem to seat evenly and while fussing with it I could hear a click.
I thought for sure that was problem, applied the power before reassembling and the washer began to spin. Bingo! But wait, I put it all back together real excited now (probably the most I have ever been over laundry), and found out the only response I get from the timer is the spin. I'll try to dig a little in the blogs and install the original timer to see what's what. Thank you.
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 1/7/2015(UTC)
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Is there anything else I can try? I really want to avoid having to go to the Laundromat in this weather.
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Rank: Member
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Found this blog; pretty extensive discussion about defective auto load sensors on my model. http ://www .appliance-repair-it.com/washer-agitates-while-filling-whirlpool.html
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 1/7/2015(UTC)
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Tried disconnecting and reconnecting the connector to the auto load sensor PN W10292584 (which is directly behind the fabric softener selector knob inside the control panel box). No good. There were only two leads entering the switch so on a hunch I jumped the leads (bypassing the auto load sensor completely) and I'm doing laundry again. I think this bypass just means I'm running full loads in the washer. I spent $150 on the timer and the post holding the knob in place - the bit behind the timer that you pull out to release the knob - I can't seem to grasp it to get it out. Is there a trick to it?? Is seems like a softer plastic than the original part. Okay, the auto load sensor is around $50 - do I really need it?? When do I get my ROI for buying a part that historically has defects causing it to fail?
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 1/7/2015(UTC)
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Here's my lessons learned:
- The clips holding the control panel box in place like to fall. They fell through to the floor. Don't lose them, they are $5 each.
- The dark grey lid switch is designed differently. The light gray OEM part has a longer cradle for the lid bracket.
- 18 AWG wire works great to jump the pins.
- Don't bypass the lid switch (even though I did) - You defeat the safety feature.
- the most likely culprit for those weird "agitate when it shouldn't," "doesn't start," "leaves clothes wet," "won't start" symptoms seem to stem from the auto load sensing switch. I'd buy that one before the timer.
-If you do rewire your washer to do laundry while waiting for parts, take care to completely insert the bare ends into the connector. You might even want to tape them up with electrical tape. You could cause a short.
-Do put your control panel box back on. It rattles the devil awake leaving it loose on a wash cycle.
Cheers.
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