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Maytag Epic Z washer

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While I was on vacation, my housesitter could not get my Maytag model MHWZ400TQ02 to work. Upon my return, I

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Old 09-16-2014, 11:34 AM
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Default Maytag Epic Z washer
Brand: Maytag   Age: 5 - 10 years   

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While I was on vacation, my housesitter could not get my Maytag model MHWZ400TQ02 to work. Upon my return, I found that the washer dies when the start button is pushed. The door locks, I can hear relays clicking, then there is a buzz and all the front panel lights go out except for the door locked light. No error code is displayed. The door has to be opened with the manual release tab.

After reading about similar issues here and elsewhere and following steps in the Tech Data Sheet, I performed the following tests:

The diagnostic test results in an F01 error. Continued to click through error codes - all F01. Then all the lights light for 5 seconds, relays click, there is a buzz and all of the lights go out except the door locked light.

Inlet valves ohm out at 807 and 824 ohms. OK per the "job aid". The cable from the valves to connector VCH7 at the CCU ohms out as good. Water pressure is good and the screens are clean.

Pump motor ohms out at 13 ohms. OK per Tech Data Sheet.

Checked door switch circuit via DS2 connector. Ohmeter shows complete circuit when door is closed, open circuit when door is open.

The coin filter had a few coins in it. I cleaned it out and tested that water was flowing freely between the drum and the filter.

Here's where my tests fail.
Connector DL3 at the CCU pins 2 and 3 ohm out at 65 ohms. Between pins 1 and 3 reads 123 ohms. The job aid says both should be 60 ohms.
Connector DL3 between pins 1 and 2 reads zero voltage when start is pressed. Between pins 2 and 3 is also zero. An earlier post here says you should get 120VAC there.

Can I assume the door switch is bad?

Thanks in advance.

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