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Problem occurs on both Perm. Press and Regular cycles. Problem does NOT seem to be related to load size. Washer

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Old 04-23-2014, 06:17 PM
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Default Doesn't always spin (Running out of ideas)
Model Number: LSC8245AW0   Brand: Whirlpool   Age: More than 10 years   

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Problem occurs on both Perm. Press and Regular cycles.
Problem does NOT seem to be related to load size.
Washer ALWAYS functions perfectly until it reaches spin cycles. About 1/2 of the time, it "sounds" like the spin cycle kicks in (can hear motor running and pump will empty tub), but it does NOT spin. As such, at the end of the load, clothes are still sopping wet. If I reset timer to spin again, it will ALWAYS proceed properly thru the spin-cycle then shut off. Over a year and a half, I've replaced the following parts without resolving the issue:
1. Entire clutch assembly (actually replaced it TWICE over a year and a half)
2. Rubber motor coupling
3. Basket drive and brake assembly
4. Main drive motor, and line-connector
5. Motor start capacitor

There isn't much else I haven't replaced in the drive-line. I can hear the motor spinning, but it will often NOT spin the tub. Can the transmission on these units "slip"? Without taking it apart, the transmission appears to be a basic right-angle drive. If so, I would expect it would either work fine, or not at all (if stripped inside). When I replaced the Basket Drive and Brake Assembly, I cleaned and inspected the drive block and nothing appeared broken or stripped. Also, why does it ALWAYS seem to spin if I just reset the timer and start the spin cycle again?

Suggestions appreciated. Fixing this issue has become an obsession with me.


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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 04-24-2014, 05:55 PM
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Could be the timer or the transmission. The transmission is of the neutral drain type. After agitation stops, the motor starts again in the opposite direction causing drain only for 2 minutes. During this time the transmission is in neutral. After the 2 minute drain, the timer causes the motor to stop and then start again. This causes the transmission to shift out of neutral so that when motor starts, spin engages while pump still drains. If there is no pause after drain, the timer is faulty and washer will just simply drain only during the entire spin cycle. You can open/close the lid to cause motor to pause. If timer is causing a pause after drain but washer still will not go into spin, the netural drain mechanism may be faulty or possibly the oil needs changing. The neutral drain mechanism is replaceable as are most all parts of the transmission. The transmission is not as simple as you think. Here is the parts manual for your model with transmission parts breakdown on the last page.

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/asse...-%20881036.pdf

Eric
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Old 04-24-2014, 06:41 PM
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Thanks for the reply.
After some additional digging, I was able to find a YouTube video of the transmission internals and how it actually functions. I found it most interesting (as I am a retired design engineer) and had not yet noticed that the motor reversed direction for agitation vs spin. I've repaired almost every appliance in the house and I'm also an auto gear-head (rebuilt a lot of engines, etc.) so once I saw how it actually worked it wasn't too intimidating IF I needed to dig into it. However, (as you noted), I closely watched the clutch and noticed that the motor did NOT pause as it supposed to shortly before starting to spin. It just has one extended DRAIN cycle and leaves the clothes wet. Further, THAT would explain why opening the lid would make it BEGIN to spin EVERY time because that action will temporarily stop the motor simulating the missing timer "pause". Conclusion: I ordered a timer about 2 hours before receiving your reply. However, it was still comforting that it seems my analysis agreed with your suggestions. Excluding this issue, 'Ol Whirlly has been quite reliable considering it is an OLD machine. For the most part, the internals still look almost new.
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Old 04-29-2014, 06:49 AM
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--FIXED --
Confirming for Forum, I DID have bad timer. It was NOT a mechanical issue with any of my drive components even though I've been messing with them for years. It drove me nuts locating this problem on this appliance.

If it helps anyone else, the ONLY symptom I had which indicated it could be a bad timer was that it did NOT pause (and would skip the accompanying "thunk" sound at that point) right after the final drain cycle and right before the start of the final spin cycle. It would simply have one L-O-N-G final drain cycle and then stop (with soggy clothes still inside). Apparently, the motor must stop for a second or two to allow the clutch to engage and my defective timer has a bad contact inside which initiates that pause.
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Old 04-29-2014, 07:56 AM
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Yes, I had already explained the required pause after drain. This causes the latch on the neutral drain mechanism to release from a cam on the bottom of the large plastic spin gear. That cam keeps the spin pawl from engaging the spin gear while in neutral drain. After latch disengages from cam, the spin pawl can now engage one of three bosses on the bottom of the spin gear so that gear is now driven, driving the spin pinion gear which drives the clutch.

Eric
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