Customer Support 7 days a week

Welcome Guest! To enable all features please Login or Register.

Notification

Icon
Error

New Topic Post Reply
Options
Go to last post Go to first unread
73buick225  
#1 Posted : Sunday, March 2, 2014 3:26:31 PM(UTC)
Quote
73buick225

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 9/24/2011(UTC)
Posts: 7

This washer is just over two years old. Over the last year it has occasionally done this, but always seemed to correct itself, but now it seems more serious. We will start a load, it will fill up with water, then nothing. It won't agitate, drain or spin. Only sound is the hum of the dial (wife said it smelled like burnt cabbage when she first checked it).So I popped the service panel and took a look at the lid switch. That one blade seems to have some residue on it, and the plug did seem very slightly indented/melted and did smell slighlty burnt. Then I looked underneath. You can see the burn marks on the harness and that spade looks pretty burnt up. Pretty sure that blue wire goes up to the dial box which looks clean.

So, would this be a bad motor?
73buick225 attached the following image(s):
photo 7.jpg
photo 8.jpg
photo 1.jpg
photo 5.jpg
photo 9.jpg
Sponsor
See inside of your appliance - diagrams and part photos for virtually every model.

powered by AppliancePartsPros.com
 
fairbank56  
#2 Posted : Sunday, March 2, 2014 4:13:18 PM(UTC)
Quote
fairbank56

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: Expert
Joined: 10/16/2012(UTC)
Posts: 3,806

Was thanked: 7 time(s) in 7 post(s)
It could be a bad motor, faulty capacitor or faulty contact on the motor start switch which is inside that black receptacle (motor switch) on the motor. Yes, that blue wire is hot side power to the motor from the timer. The problem here is that you must replace that burned contact in the motor connector and lid switch connector and you will have to replace the motor switch as that burned contact is beyond refurbishing. Once you get the contacts back to normal and the motor switch replaced, you would need to check the motor current with amprobe to determine if motor itself has a problem or if there is something else wrong with the washer causing too much load on the motor. Finding someone to do this kind of work won't be easy, most tech's don't do that kind of repair. Your other option is to just replace the motor, capacitor, lid switch and complete wiring harness.

Eric
73buick225  
#3 Posted : Sunday, March 2, 2014 5:07:07 PM(UTC)
Quote
73buick225

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 9/24/2011(UTC)
Posts: 7

I didn't know about the capacitor before, so I took it out to take a look at it. I'll be able to put a meter on it tomorrow, but I noticed two things with it. One, there seems to be water around the terminals (could be the internal cap fluid, too, I made sure to wash my hands), and two, I had my wife smell it and its emanating the burnt cabbage odor she said she smelled before.
fairbank56  
#4 Posted : Sunday, March 2, 2014 5:43:54 PM(UTC)
Quote
fairbank56

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: Expert
Joined: 10/16/2012(UTC)
Posts: 3,806

Was thanked: 7 time(s) in 7 post(s)
Have you had that motor replaced before? Doesn't look like it's the original motor. Is the part number on it 3951551? If it is, I would say that someone has replaced the original motor with that one. Did you buy the washer new or used?

This switch should fit your motor. Whirlpool 3952056 Main Drive Motor Switch - AppliancePartsPros.com

Eric
73buick225  
#5 Posted : Monday, March 3, 2014 2:06:11 PM(UTC)
Quote
73buick225

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 9/24/2011(UTC)
Posts: 7

Motor has never been replaced. Its only just over 2yrs old, bought new from HomeDepot.
73buick225  
#6 Posted : Monday, March 3, 2014 4:26:42 PM(UTC)
Quote
73buick225

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 9/24/2011(UTC)
Posts: 7

Okay, so I got a meter on the motor. Here are the readings: (Fluke 77 digital meter)
WhiteBlack to White: 0 ohms
Black to Yellow: 7 ohms
Blue to White: 1 ohm
Blue to WhiteBlack: 1 ohm

For the capacitor, here are the readings.
Initial: 3 Mohms
While holding leads about 15 seconds: went down to 2.2Mohms, then starting to creep back up.
Switched leads
Initial: -1.6 Mohms
While holding leads about 30 secons, went almost to about -0.3 Mohms, then went to positive 2.4 Mohms, went down to about 1.5, then started to creep up.

I'm going to bring the cap to my local appliance repair guy and have them check it too as they probably have an actual cap tester.

Also took a look at the insides of the start switch. Nothing looked melted. Took pump of quick, motor span freely, pump didn't seem jammed.
fairbank56  
#7 Posted : Monday, March 3, 2014 7:21:01 PM(UTC)
Quote
fairbank56

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: Expert
Joined: 10/16/2012(UTC)
Posts: 3,806

Was thanked: 7 time(s) in 7 post(s)
Motor readings are within specs. Capacitor is suspect, need meter with capacitance test function.

Eric
Quick Reply Show Quick Reply
Users browsing this topic
New Topic Post Reply
Forum Jump  
You can post new topics in this forum.
You can reply to topics in this forum.
You can delete your posts in this forum.
You can edit your posts in this forum.
You cannot create polls in this forum.
You can vote in polls in this forum.