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20 yr old workhorse agitates thru wash cycle, but does not spin thru spin cycle. The pump and motor work

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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 01-18-2014, 06:01 PM
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Default NO SPIN Maytag
Model Number: LAT9593AAW   Brand: Maytag   Age: More than 10 years   

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20 yr old workhorse agitates thru wash cycle, but does not spin thru spin cycle. The pump and motor work fine and drain machine, but drum does not spin. The transmission pulley and drive belt spin during agitate/wash cycle, but not during spin/drain cycle, and you can smell the belt slipping/burning around the spinning motor pulley. Thought I had worn belt(s) and replaced them (were original). Do I have a "mechanical" (clutch/transmission) problem or "electrical" (switch or relay) not engaging the transmission/clutch to spin the drum? How do I diagnose further? Thanks.


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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 01-19-2014, 06:00 AM
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Tilt the machine back and rotate the main drive pulley clockwise by hand. The pulley should climb up the shaft, the brake should release and transmission and basket should rotate. If it works ok, you have a problem with the motor mount. If it won't rotate by hand, could be the thrust bearing above the pulley, the radial bearing above the brake package or the tub bearing has seized.

Eric
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Old 01-19-2014, 02:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fairbank56 View Post
Tilt the machine back and rotate the main drive pulley clockwise by hand. The pulley should climb up the shaft, the brake should release and transmission and basket should rotate. If it works ok, you have a problem with the motor mount. If it won't rotate by hand, could be the thrust bearing above the pulley, the radial bearing above the brake package or the tub bearing has seized.

Eric
Thanks for the reply Eric....the machine was already tilted and main drive belt removed. The main drive pulley under transmission does spin by hand clockwise about 1-1/4 revolutions, climbs up shaft and then binds as it tries to spin the tub (the same pulley spins freely counterclockwise by hand and properly engages/spins the agitator). Does this mean the bearings on either side of the brake/clutch are ok, brake is releasing and the tub bearing is seized/binding? Or is it possible that the brake is not releasing? After one clockwise revolution of the pulley, and after it climbed up, I can feel a bit of a "thump" before it spins a bit more then binds trying to turn the tub.....at that point I apply some muscle and can see the tub trying to move (with a helper, no my arms are not that long!) Might that thump be the brake release?
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Old 01-19-2014, 03:26 PM
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I would open the top panel and take off the tub cover to check and make sure there's no clothing caught between the tubs. If you don't see anything, then you need to remove the brake package and then see if you can rotate the transmission or basket by hand. We use a special tool to remove the brake package, part number 038315, but it's expensive unless you can find a used one. A hammer and drift pin might work but these things are usually difficult to break loose. You must first remove the pulley and the brake package retaining clip. Rotate brake package CCW to remove.

Eric
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Old 01-19-2014, 06:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fairbank56 View Post
I would open the top panel and take off the tub cover to check and make sure there's no clothing caught between the tubs. If you don't see anything, then you need to remove the brake package and then see if you can rotate the transmission or basket by hand. We use a special tool to remove the brake package, part number 038315, but it's expensive unless you can find a used one. A hammer and drift pin might work but these things are usually difficult to break loose. You must first remove the pulley and the brake package retaining clip. Rotate brake package CCW to remove.

Eric
Thanks again Eric.....am I removing the brake pkg to eliminate that as a possible problem? In other words, if after removing it, I can spin the basket, does that mean the brake is stuck/locked? If that is the case, how hard will it be to remove it?
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Old 01-19-2014, 07:13 PM
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I don't think it's the brake rotor that is the problem but it could be the radial bearing that is on top of the brake package. Removing the brake package eliminates these two as the problem if you still can't rotate the basket without them. The brake package will likely be difficult to get loose. If there's no clothing between the tubs, I think the most likely problem is the tub bearing.

Eric
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Old 01-19-2014, 07:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fairbank56 View Post
I don't think it's the brake rotor that is the problem but it could be the radial bearing that is on top of the brake package. Removing the brake package eliminates these two as the problem if you still can't rotate the basket without them. The brake package will likely be difficult to get loose. If there's no clothing between the tubs, I think the most likely problem is the tub bearing.

Eric
Ok, thanks.....I have no experience with these and did not know how that brake was designed/worked. I do not think a piece of clothing got in there, but can check. I also tend to think it is the tub bearing, but might get lucky if it is bearing above the brake (if I can get the brake out). I have taken the pulley off and have a better idea now how that works and believe that the brake is engaging/disengaging the shaft/tub as it should. Puzzled about how that agitator works though.
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Old 01-22-2014, 01:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fairbank56 View Post
I don't think it's the brake rotor that is the problem but it could be the radial bearing that is on top of the brake package. Removing the brake package eliminates these two as the problem if you still can't rotate the basket without them. The brake package will likely be difficult to get loose. If there's no clothing between the tubs, I think the most likely problem is the tub bearing.

Eric
Ok Eric....it did not look/sound like a good idea to try to remove the brake assy w/o the right tool, so I considered buying one, but in the mean-time it wasn't too hard to remove the basket and mounting stem assy to get the drum out and get at the tub bearing (soaked the threads with WD-40 then used heavy hammer/strong screwdriver to loosen the top nut). It is siezed (the center portion/bearing should spin freely within the rubber housing/mount right?). Also, the sleeve/liner came up with the bearing and is stuck in the bearing, but that's ok, the new bearing comes with one and I don't have to try to peel/pry it off the shaft.
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Old 01-22-2014, 04:04 PM
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No, the bearing does not spin within the rubber housing. It's the sleeve that spins within the bearing. You need to take the outer tub out of the washer so that you can thoroughly clean the transmission shaft that the new sleeve fits over.

Eric
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Old 01-22-2014, 10:32 PM
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Quote:
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No, the bearing does not spin within the rubber housing. It's the sleeve that spins within the bearing. You need to take the outer tub out of the washer so that you can thoroughly clean the transmission shaft that the new sleeve fits over.

Eric
So a new bearing has no moving/spinning parts...it is not a roller bearing? I already had the drum out and the bearing removed, that is how I knew that the sleeve/liner was stuck in the bearing. I will clean up the shaft w/fine emery, but it is pretty clean, as is the mating inner surface of the sleeve/liner. If I put the bearing w/sleeve on the shaft, it spins freely, as did the tub when I removed the 3 tub mounting bolts. The sleeve however is seized inside the bearing. So a "seized bearing" in this case is really not so much a seized bearing as a sleeve seized in the bearing? I was able to slowly work it free by repeatedly spraying it w/WD-40 and tapping it back & forth. I'm not understanding why this issue caused the machine not to work...what's the difference if the sleeve can spin around the shaft (shaft spins in the sleeve) vs. the sleeve spinning in the bearing (shaft together w/sleeve spins in bearing)? Either way, the shaft is free to spin. I am either missing something or wondering now if it may be the brake or radial bearing?
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