Rank: Member
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Joined: 12/23/2013(UTC)
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Hi,
I have a whirlpool washer that has stopped working recently. It takes in the water in the beginning of the cycle and that's about it. The washer tries to run (you hear a "hmmm" sound) but it doesn't agitate at all. It then stops and tries a few minutes later. The timer stays on the same position the whole time.
I have manually the timer to "rinse" and "spin" and that doesn't do anything at all. Water does not get drained either.
Any ideas as to what this could be?
Btw, I have no idea about washers at all. So, please forgive me if I didn't give enough info to even begin the diagnoses. Let me know if you need more info.
Thank you,
J!
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Expert
Joined: 10/16/2012(UTC)
Posts: 3,806
Was thanked: 7 time(s) in 7 post(s)
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Could be one of a number of things. First thing I would do is bypass the lid switch. If no go, leave lid switch bypassed, remove the cabinet and pull the pump from the motor as something could be jammed in there or the pump is bad preventing the motor from running. Motor has a thermal overload switch that will kill power til it cools, switch back on and repeat. If it's not the pump, I would pull the motor and try running it sitting on the floor. If motor still won't run, spin the shaft by hand while it's humming to see if it will start. BTW, don't leave it humming except for very brief testing as it can damage the capacitor and motor windings. Problem may also be a bad capacitor, timer or wiring connection. Lid switch bypass: Lid switch bypassing Whirlpool direct drive washer - YouTubeCabinet removal: How to Disassemble Whirlpool/Kenmore Direct Drive Washer - YouTubeEric
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 12/23/2013(UTC)
Posts: 3
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Thanks for the reply Eric.
I forgot to mention. The humming stops if I lift the lid while the motor is humming. It starts again when I close the lid back. Does this mean the lid switch is OK or do you think it could still be malfunctioning?
Thanks very much for the links. They seem very easy to follow.
Just so I understand completely, if the lid switch is bad then I should first replace it and test. If that doesn't work then check the pump and possibly replace it (if it turns out to be bad) and then the motor replacement. At which point do you think it would be better to scrap the repair and purchase the new one instead?
I will try the three steps you mentioned 1 by 1 and report back. As mentioned earlier, this is really an unfamiliar territory for me so it may take me longer than usual to do even the simplest of the task.
Thanks,
J!
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Expert
Joined: 10/16/2012(UTC)
Posts: 3,806
Was thanked: 7 time(s) in 7 post(s)
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Yes, it sounds like the lid switch is ok but you will need to bypass it anyway to test the machine with the cabinet removed. If it runs ok with pump removed then you would have to remove the drain hoses from the pump to check for obstructions in the pump. This is a direct drive design which are no longer being made and is definitely worth fixing.
Eric
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 12/23/2013(UTC)
Posts: 3
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Hi Eric,
I found the culprit. A sock was stuck in the pump. It was removed and now the washer ran OK. The only thing I noticed that it is now a bit louder than before when agitating (perhaps, it was because I ran an empty cycle to test). I will update when it is all connected again and wash clothes in it. The laundry room is very tight and the tub was in the way to reach the washer. I had to actually cut the drain pipe coming out of the tub to be able to remove it and then access the washer. I now have to figure out how to install the tub again.
Thanks very much for the tips. They were really helpful. You saved me $$$.
J!
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