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Hello guys, this is my first post on your site. Hello to all. Hopefully someone may be able to help

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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 11-22-2013, 02:42 AM
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Default Kenmore Washer Lid Lock/Won't fill
Model Number: 110.21102012   Brand: Kenmore   Age: 1 - 5 years   

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Hello guys, this is my first post on your site. Hello to all. Hopefully someone may be able to help me figure this out. I recently acquired a Kenmore Washer Model 110.21102012. the lid lock was disassembled and in the tub. Upon further inspection I noticed there were a few pieces of the switch missing, including the solenoid. I have a copy of the Tech sheet, describing how to run diagnostic tests, etc. Problem being, the washer has to be in standby mode, which of course it can't due to the lid lock situation. So, after a little more searching, I managed to find the wiring diagram for the lid lock (I've attached the image below). Basically I'm wanting to run the diagnostics or at least get it to run through a full cycle, to make sure nothing else is wrong. In an effort to bypass the lid lock, and after looking at the diagram, I connected all 4 wires, which should be comparable to the lid being shut, and the lid locked. When I turn it on, the red indicator lights up solid for the lid lock, then after a few seconds, a click, then the green Fill indicator comes on, but no water is flowing. then after a minute or so, the motor turns on briefly and spins the tub just a bit, then spins briefly again after another minute or two. Then...nothing. the green Fill light stays on....and the red lid lock light stays on solid. I left it like that while I ate dinner, came back and everything still the same. I'm thinking that the machine may be assuming the water is in the process of filling the tub and its waiting for the signal from the load size sensor to signal that it has enough water, before it starts to agitate. Only other possibility I can think of is that the board may be screwed from some unknown event prior to it coming into my hands. I don't think the lid lock circuit would have anything to do with it, but I may be wrong, only thing I can think of from that end is the diagram showing that the solenoid has 68-100 ohm resistance that is not present without having the actual solenoid. Any info, thoughts, or ideas would be much appreciated. Just figured I'd ask someone more knowledgeable about such things before I go any further. Thanks.


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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 11-22-2013, 06:43 AM
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Your going to need a working lid lock. The normal sequence when starting is that the control board first locks the lid, then unlocks and locks again to test the function of the switch.

Eric
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Old 11-22-2013, 01:06 PM
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Default RE Lid switch

Quote:
Originally Posted by fairbank56 View Post
Your going to need a working lid lock. The normal sequence when starting is that the control board first locks the lid, then unlocks and locks again to test the function of the switch.

Eric
Hey Eric is there anyway to manually perform the sequence of operation by jumping the wires out. The reason I'm asking is I want to find out if everything else is working before I purchase the switch. Thanks for your help!
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