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Roper Top Load Spinning

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I have a Roper top load (RAL5144bq0) that was making a clunking noise while spinning. It agitated fine and I

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Old 08-22-2013, 07:27 AM
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Default Roper Top Load Spinning
Model Number: RAL5144BQ0   Brand: Roper   Age: More than 10 years   

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I have a Roper top load (RAL5144bq0) that was making a clunking noise while spinning. It agitated fine and I replaced the clutch and motor coupling. Both of these were bad. It still does it and the clutch gets hot to the touch. The clutch area makes a clicking noise while it's spinning. I just noticed that I could stop the drum while spinning using my hand. The shaft in the center (that's connected to agitator, etc) seems to start/stop/start/stop. Could it be the drive block? If so I know I have to get the spanner wrench. I'm not sure what the drive block does and don't want to waste time buying parts and guessing. Everything else works, but the spin makes a loud clicking/clanking noise while spinning with clothes in it or not). It fills, agitates, etc perfectly.


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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 08-22-2013, 07:49 AM
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Is this the type of noise your washer is making?

Kenmore washer noisy spin - YouTube

If not, post a video on youtube so we can hear it and see whats going on in the tub while spinning.

Eric
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Old 08-22-2013, 07:59 AM
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Roper washer noise Mack - YouTube

This was before the clutch and motor coupling replacement, but it is still making the similar sound. The drum will spin while it clicks, but I can stop the drum with hand.
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Old 08-22-2013, 08:19 AM
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Does it still make the clicking noise when you stop the tub with your hand?
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Old 08-22-2013, 08:30 AM
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Yes it does. I did have the agitator removed when I did this, but it would go right back to spinning.
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Old 08-22-2013, 08:31 AM
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This time it does go quieter when fully spinning. It is loudest (after replacing coupler) when it first starts. But clutch gets really hot
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Old 08-22-2013, 08:47 AM
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By observing the brakes in your video, it doesn't look like they are spinning as fast as the clutch hub, which means the clutch is slipping, although my observation of the slow speed of the brakes may just be due to the frame rate of your video camera. Does the basket seem to be spinning slow? It should be around 640 rpm at full speed. Try this. Pull the gearcase and remove just the clutch band from inside the clutch hub. Reinstall gearcase and run in spin mode. With no clutch band, basket will not be driven. If you still hear the clicking noise, it's the gearcase. If the noise goes away, you will need to pull the basket to check for something between the tubs, a worn drive block or the lint filter under the basket is causing the problem. Here is the parts manual for your washer.

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/asse...-%20881065.pdf

Eric
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Old 08-22-2013, 09:30 AM
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I did what you said and it is still making the noise. The gear box on spin seems to stop/start/stop/start. So I removed the gear case and hooked up motor. Plugged it in (was careful) and it makes the noise and stops/starts. I guess I'll have to look for a new gear case. The center post should be spinning pretty fast I assume and it's going really slow.
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Old 08-22-2013, 10:49 AM
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Actually, there's nothing actively driving the agitator shaft when it's in spin mode. You might as well open up the gearcase. It might just be a bad spin gear. It's plastic and is known to lose some teeth or even break off a piece. If you open it, do it while it's level as it has oil in it. Use a putty knife to cut through the cover seal. There is no preformed gasket, just uses something like form-a-gasket. Dump the oil in a clean container so you can reuse it if you can fix it. The big plastic spin gear is right on top. Most gearcase parts are available if you want to tackle it.

I had a feeling it might be the spin gear as it rotates at nearly 3 revolutions per second in spin mode which is about the rate of the clicking noise. Might be a section of it broken off or missing some teeth.

Breakdown of gearcase parts is in the parts manual.

Eric
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Old 08-22-2013, 04:49 PM
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You were 100% correct. The plastic gear was stripped on 1/3 and teeth missing on the other side. There was also plastic fragments in the fluid. The new gear and fluid was about $100. There were other plastic pieces that were scored. I just ordered a new transmission. It was less than $200 delivered. Thanks for your expertise and this machine is basically new again (when the tranny comes in).
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