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Old 07-21-2013, 05:06 AM
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Ok. Thanks!

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Old 07-23-2013, 06:32 AM
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Eric thanks so much for your awesome help is trouble shooting my washer. I learned a lot, but alas she's dead.

New washer will be delivered Tomorrow! YAY!

Meanwhile i'm pulling all the parts off the broken washer that I can. I might be able to use them for repairs is the (hopefully) distant future.

Aside from removing the lid switch, knobs, agitator and belt, what else should I keep from the old washer?

Thanks!
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Old 07-23-2013, 06:42 AM
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Even if you buy another GE washer, virtually nothing from your old washer will be usable on the new one. The overall design has completely changed. What model washer are you getting?

Eric
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Old 07-23-2013, 07:00 AM
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Gtwn2800dww
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Old 07-23-2013, 08:08 AM
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That's a Hydrowave model. Totally different motor, belt, control board, doesn't have a transmission. Same tub parts though including agitator. Enjoy your new washer. Much quieter than the old one. Much less aggresive agitation, little higher spin speed.

Eric
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Old 07-23-2013, 08:29 AM
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Thanks so much Eric. Your help has been invaluable!
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Old 02-06-2016, 02:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fairbank56 View Post
There is no reset for the motor on this washer. Does the motor make any noise at all while in agitate or spin? If totally quiet, check the lid switch. If the lid switch is bad, the motor won't work. To check lid switch, open control panel and unplug the 10 pin plug from the control board and check continuity between the orange and yellow/red wires. Should be 0 ohms with lid closed. If lid switch checks out ok, retrieve the tech sheet from inside control panel. It will tell you how to get into service mode to check for control board error codes.

Eric
Hi....would really like to talk to fairbanks56. I have same problem..

Brian
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Old 02-06-2016, 03:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fairbank56 View Post
Do you know how to use your multimeter to make continuity checks and live line voltage checks? If not, call a tech or parts swap til you get it fixed. If the lid switch is good, the motor makes no noise when in agitate or spin, you could have a bad control board, motor, or wiring issue. You either troubleshoot with meter and wiring diagram or parts swap.

Eric
Quote:
Originally Posted by fairbank56 View Post
There is no reset for the motor on this washer. Does the motor make any noise at all while in agitate or spin? If totally quiet, check the lid switch. If the lid switch is bad, the motor won't work. To check lid switch, open control panel and unplug the 10 pin plug from the control board and check continuity between the orange and yellow/red wires. Should be 0 ohms with lid closed. If lid switch checks out ok, retrieve the tech sheet from inside control panel. It will tell you how to get into service mode to check for control board error codes.

Eric
Hi....would really like to talk to fairbanks56. I have same problem. I bought this used set from someone for an ole lady friend of family. The dryer works fine so the washer was free (just get it out of my garage she said). its probly been setting a month. A GE profile set. They look great. the washer model is WMSE4190A0WW. Made in 2000, my guess. She said it would fill and agitate but not spin. When I go home it would neither agitate or spin. It will fill and drain and rinse but not agitate or spin. Timer goes thru all the cycles. I found wiring diagram online. not one with washer but I ordered frm GE. Not received yet. From all the advice online I tested the water pressure/level sensor. It failed Ohm test so I replaced. Tested new one. it works. did continuity test of lid switch both at disconnected sensor then from disconnect 10 pin plug....continuity good. Ive turned the motor and transmission pulleys by hand....they are free. the motor never heats up during the cycle. not even warm. theres no burning smell. theres no motor hum. the belt in good shape, not melted or dry rotted.

Ive done the 6 times closing the lid in 12 sec. also put washer in test mode by rotating knob to 9 Oclock, press start and rotate to 3 oclock. the rotate one 2 knotches to the right and had no failure codes.

I have multimeter and can use. I think I can diagnose circuit board too but I need some help. If have to buy circuit board assemble it defeats the purpose of the purchase.

Would someone please help me. Ive noticed Eric has given the most precise information related to this subject but be glad to hear from anyone that would be willing to help.

I really appreciate it!

R/Brian
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