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Vincent A Perrello  
#1 Posted : Monday, June 10, 2013 10:10:08 AM(UTC)
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Vincent A Perrello

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I have a 10 year old Whirlpool Top load washing machine that frequently does not go into the final spin cycle. :( The model number is WTW5300VW2. My problem started with the machine making a lot of noise at the end of the spin cycle. It did spin originally. So, I replaced the Drive block and Brake tube which were both worn right down. The loud noise went away but the machine now does not automatically go into spin cycle. If I manually turn the basket counter clockwise and then clockwise until I feel resistance, I can sometimes get the spin cycle to work. So I then replaced the clutch band and the motor coupler. Both original parts looked fine. Now, sometimes it will spin on its own, but most often does not. Could it be that I have a bad gearcase? How can I be sure? What do you suggest? :confused:
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fairbank56  
#2 Posted : Monday, June 10, 2013 12:17:04 PM(UTC)
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fairbank56

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The way to check for a gearcase issue is to run the machine in spin mode with the cabinet removed and lid switch bypassed. Observe the clutch hub while in spin mode. If it's spinning fast, then the gearcase is ok. If it's spinning and the basket is not, then the clutch is slipping or the brake cam driver is faulty. Just remember that directly after agitation the washer should drain for a minute or two without spinning. Then the motor must pause and start again at which point it should start spinning. Did you replace the clutch band with a genuine Whirlpool FSP part? There are a lot of junk parts out there and it's very common for people to purchase these low priced junk parts. If your gearcase seems ok, I would replace the entire clutch assembly which comes with a new brake cam driver as well. What is the serial number of your washer? Seems like that model is only about 5 years old to me.

Eric

Whirlpool 285785 Clutch Assembly - AppliancePartsPros.com

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Vincent A Perrello  
#3 Posted : Tuesday, June 11, 2013 5:12:09 PM(UTC)
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Vincent A Perrello

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Eric, thanks for that great advice. :) My Washing Machine serial number is CY1840198. I did what you advised. I noticed that when the machine goes into spin cycle, that the clutch spins, but the basket stays still. While in spin cycle, I manually moved the basket ever so slightly in a clockwise position and the basket started immediately spinning. So according to your thoughts, I need a completely new clutch assembly. What specifically is causing the clutch to spin and not the basket? Where is the disconnect? Can I just replace that specific part? Thanks in advance for your help.
fairbank56  
#4 Posted : Tuesday, June 11, 2013 5:50:19 PM(UTC)
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fairbank56

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Things that can cause the clutch to slip are a worn pads on the clutch band, weak clutch band spring, oil/grease in the clutch hub, bad bearings in the centerpost, brakes not releasing, a bad drive block causing the basket to contact the outer tub, clothing caught between the tubs. You replaced the drive block and spin tube so the most likely problem is the clutch. With the gearcase removed, it should be relatively easy to rotate the basket by grabbing the brake cam driver and rotating it CCW. This releases the brakes allowing the spin tube to rotate. In normal operation, the gearcase spin pinion gear drives the clutch hub which drives the clutch band, the clutch band has a tab on it that contacts the tab on the brake cam driver which releases the brakes and drives the spin tube. If there's oil in the clutch hub, the top seal for the spin pinion gear in the gearcase may be leaking. Again, only use Whirlpool FSP parts. Your washer was manufactured in April of 2009 so it's not 10 years old.

Eric
Vincent A Perrello  
#5 Posted : Wednesday, June 12, 2013 3:26:32 AM(UTC)
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Vincent A Perrello

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Eric Thanks again for your reply. :) Sorry about the age of the washer, It seemed like we had it longer then that. As noted in the original post I did replace the clutch band and motor coupler of which both original parts appeared to be fine. When I replaced the clutch band, the internal parts were dry. Additionally, before replacing the clutch band, I wiped out the clutch hub and new band with alcohol. Now, being that the clutch is spinning and the tub is not, sounds like the brakes are not being released. When I replaced the Brake tube I also received a brake cam driver which I additionally replaced. Now I'm at a total loss again. :confused: Any additional suggestions? Thanks.
fairbank56  
#6 Posted : Wednesday, June 12, 2013 5:03:33 AM(UTC)
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fairbank56

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All I can advise is to remove the gearcase and rotate the spin tube manually to try and figure out what is binding and preventing it from rotating easily. May be the bearings in the tub support centerpost.

Eric
Vincent A Perrello  
#7 Posted : Thursday, June 13, 2013 5:52:53 PM(UTC)
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Vincent A Perrello

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PROBLEM SOLVED! :) After doing a little more research online, I found the answer. Now it all makes sense. I noticed that when I would manually cause the machine to go into a spin cycle, (by manually turning the basket); when it completed the spin, it would come to an abrupt stop. So much so, that it would cause the basket to contort. this is what must have caused the brake to seize up each time. What a coincidence that this started happening right after I had to replaced the Brake Tube assembly. Well, Now I feel like I'm going to be revealing a trade secret. I got the answer from DavesRepair.com. He suggested purchasing some High Temp Silicone grease from an automotive store. Well, I had some Brake Caliper Grease that I use on my car brake parts. So I applied just a drop to the inside of the brake drum where the pads make contact. NOT THE CLUTCH HUB! Then I ran my finger all around the inside of the drum to remove any excess. I also applied just a drop to the pads as well. I used the least amount that I could possibly use. This is done just to apply a very thin film coating on the parts. Well, lo and behold, The washing machine has been working fine ever since. All my thanks go to Eric for all the great advice and to DavesRepair.com. Keep up the great work!! :)
fairbank56  
#8 Posted : Thursday, June 13, 2013 6:48:06 PM(UTC)
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fairbank56

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I am aware of that "trick". It is commonly used for situations where the tub comes to an abrubt hard stop after spin, often breaking the motor coupler. Normally requires removing the basket drive to service the brake shoes and brake hub but the brake lube is an easy workaround that usually works well. Haven't heard of it used for a no spin problem. Glad it worked out for you. Thanks for reporting back. One more problem fix to add to the files.

Eric
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