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Whirpool Ultimate Care II won't drain or spin (lid switch good)

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While washing a load of clothes, my Whirlpool Ultimate Care II stopped on the rinse cycle. The water in the

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Old 05-16-2013, 04:12 PM
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Default Whirpool Ultimate Care II won't drain or spin (lid switch good)
Model Number: Ultimate Care II   Brand: Whirlpool   Age: 5 - 10 years   

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While washing a load of clothes, my Whirlpool Ultimate Care II stopped on the rinse cycle. The water in the tub would not drain, the dial stuck at the rinse position, and the washing machine made a low humming sound. What drew my attention to the washer while I was getting ready for work was a faint smell of burning plastic (I think). In any event, I manually drained the water and checked the drain hoses for obstructions, as well as the tub itself; there were none. I also checked the lid switch for continutity and the switch is fine. When I plug the machine up and turn the switch to different cycles, the tub will not move, for either agitation or spin purposes, but will fill with water. The dial stays stuck in the same place and hums.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks


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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 05-16-2013, 04:25 PM
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What is the model number of your washer? Remove the cabinet and check the plug at the motor. Unplug it and check for burned or corroded contacts or broken wires. Check connections at capacitor. May be mounted on motor or back of cabinet, depends on model. Unplug washer, check continuity between power plug neutral (wide blade) and motor white wire and white/black wire (motor connector plugged in).

Eric
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Old 05-17-2013, 06:49 AM
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Default Whirlpool Ultimate Care 2

For the life of me I can't find the model number on this Ultimate Care 2 Washer. I did pull the capacitor, on the inside of the cabinet and when I did one of the leads broke. The lead appeared to be corroded, so hopefully this is the problem. I ordered a capacitor and when it comes in I will update.

Thanks for the prompt reply.

By the way, if you test a capacitor for continuity by turning to the ohms setting on the voltage meter, is the meter supposed to read a constant number as it does if you are testing the lid switch? The reason I am asking is because when I put the meter to the capacitor, I would get a high reading, the it would drop immediately, then another much lower reading, then it would drop, until I got no movement at all, until I reversed the leads on the meter. I am wondering whether this type of reading means the capacitor is good (provided the contacts are not corroded and falling off) because of the nature of what a capacitor does, as opposed to a switch.
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Old 05-17-2013, 07:18 AM
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Before testing the capacitor, you should first short it out with a screwdriver across the terminals to remove any charge on it. Then, when you place the meter on it, it should start out with a low reading and slowly increase as it charges up. This is just a static test and all it tells you is if the capacitor is shorted or not. Some multimeters have a capacitor test function that will give you the value in microfarads of the capacitor which gives you a better idea of it's condition but to fully test one you need a capacitor analyzer which can place full voltage across it to test for leakage and other tests such as equivalent series resistance and dielectric absorption. Easier to just replace with a known good capacitor for testing purposes. A faulty capacitor can prevent the motor from starting but would not cause the timer to not advance.

Eric
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