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GE Profile washer agitates, drains, but doesn't spin

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My GE Profile washer (2006) agitates and drains, but it won't spin. Actually, it won't start spinning. I took the

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Old 05-04-2013, 06:19 PM
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Question GE Profile washer agitates, drains, but doesn't spin
Model Number: WPRB8050D1WW   Brand: GE   Age: 5 - 10 years   

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My GE Profile washer (2006) agitates and drains, but it won't spin. Actually, it won't start spinning. I took the front off and have the top situated so that I can spin the basket myself with the lid "closed." If I start it spinning during the spin cycle, it will continue spinning and sometimes actually accelerate. I even got it up to a full final spin earlier today with a very small load.

I can hear it click and actually start trying to spin, so I'm pretty sure it's not a timing or lid switch issue.
It spins if I give it a shove and it agitates just fine, so the motor is working.
It has a clutchless motor, so it can't be the clutch.
It fills properly, drains properly, and starts trying to spin once drained, so I don't think it's the pressure sensor or a blockage in that tube.
It had been leaking from the bearing/tub seal area, so I replaced those parts already.

Could it be anything else but the transmission at this point?

The transmission is still under warranty, so if I have a GE tech come out to diagnose and replace it, I can save the $200 for the tranny, but it'll still cost $90 for the service call. Which is sad, because I can do that replacement myself.

So my second question is: Is there any way to avoid the service call, but still have GE honor the warranty on the transmission?

Thanks in advance!


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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 05-05-2013, 07:50 AM
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What is the motor pulley, main drive pulley and transmission doing when you are in spin mode but the basket is not spinning?

Eric
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Old 05-05-2013, 08:18 AM
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I just simulated a heavy load by slowing the empty basket with my hand while in spin mode and the motor, pulleys, and transmission were doing nothing. Then I let go and the basket started spinning along with everything else.
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Old 05-05-2013, 08:38 AM
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You should be able to rotate the motor pulley by hand in the CW (viewed from below) direction which will release the brake and rotate the transmission and basket. You have to use two hands to keep the pulley going to keep the brake released. It should be fairly easy to do this. If it is very stiff, there could be clothing caught between the tubs, a bad tub bearing or a lower transmission problem. If the washer was leaking at the tub seal, water could have gotten into the lower transmission bearing just above the brake housing and damaged it causing it to seize. Water could have also gotten into the area of the transmission just above the pulley where the brake release mechanism is located.

Eric
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Old 05-05-2013, 02:16 PM
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I can say for certain that there's no clothing stuck and the tub bearing is fine becasue I completely took the machine apart to replace the tub bearing a little over a week ago. I just tried rotating the motor pulley by hand as you described, and it rotated just fine.

I should probably mention that the washer has been sitting on an unlevel floor for much too long, and one of the tub straps at the top had broken. It's level now and the strap has been replaced, but I imagine that can't have been good for the transmission.
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Old 05-05-2013, 05:45 PM
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Well, if you can freely rotate the motor pulley, transmission and basket by hand but the motor can't do it I would have to be checking line voltage at the motor during spin mode to see if your having a voltage drop problem. You may have a motor problem yet it could be a transmission problem. Since you had a leak, water could have compromised the lower transmission bearing or the inclined ramp clutch in the lower transmission. The only real way to check the lower transmission is to take it out of the washer. One thing you can check is after its been spinning for several minutes, right after it stops, feel the lower bearing support housing. If it's very hot to the touch, you likely have a bad bearing there or the clutch isn't allowing the brake to release all the way.

Eric
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Old 05-07-2013, 02:07 AM
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I ran the 6 minute final spin cycle and the lower transmission housing was pretty hot. The machine is pretty loud in spin mode. Does that also indicate a bad lower bearing?
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Old 05-07-2013, 02:42 AM
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OK, so from what I'm reading on this site and others, it sounds like the problem is the lower bearing. Will the fact that it's been leaking void the 9 year warranty on the transmission? If not, how do I find a technician around here (north Dallas area) who works with GE directly, but can come out sooner than 2 weeks from now, which is when GE can have someone out here? Or is there any way to replace the tranny myself, and still have GE honor the warranty?
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Old 05-07-2013, 05:50 AM
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I would suspect that the warranty would not cover damage caused by water leaking into it. It is possible to tear the lower transmission apart, replace the bearing and lube the ramp clutch mechanism however I doubt you will find a tech that has done it or willing to do it. Iv'e done a couple of them but it is not known as a routine service procedure. GE does not sell parts for the transmission however the bearing is readily available elsewhere. If you have good mechanical skills and experience, you could do it yourself or you could just replace the transmission. You have to take the machine completely apart to do it.

Eric
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Old 05-08-2013, 01:30 PM
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I think that I could do the lower bearing replacement myself with some basic instructions on how to get to it. I can get the transmission out myself, but from there I will need a bit more direction.

I'd like to find someone who sells the bearing locally (Dallas) but I'm having trouble finding anyone closer than Florida. Any ideas?
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