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Timer not advancing

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Washer Repair

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After I replaced the timer, brake, tub seal, tub bearing, belts, I had it running again although it would not

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Old 04-17-2013, 08:33 PM
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Default Timer not advancing
Model Number: LAT9604AAL   Brand: Maytag   Age: More than 10 years   

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After I replaced the timer, brake, tub seal, tub bearing, belts, I had it running again although it would not stop the rinse during the final spin so I had wet clothes. Checked out the "new timer" and found badly burned contacts on the #6 cam. Burned back about 3/8". Any idea what would cause the burn like that on the contact? I suspect it happened on the Delicate cycle my gal had it running for a light load.

So I got out my original timer which ran before, but had a broken contact lifter on cam #4 (the Spin cam). I managed to fashion a lifter tab which I soldered to the central contact arm. Confirmed it switched ok with my VOM, and installed it in the washer.

Fired it up, filled the tub just fine, quit when it got full, and sat there. The timer was not advancing, no clicking as it should if the motor was turning. If I manually advance it through to the spin cycle, it spins up and empties the tub. Since it does the spin cycle means my lifter arm repair works for the most part.

So, is there some sort of fuse in the circuit after the lid switch but before the timer motor? I see something on the schematic, perhaps a fusible link?

I removed the photo link because I must be doing something wrong, it does not load properly from ********************.


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Last edited by andyvh1959 : 04-19-2013 at 10:00 AM.
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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 04-18-2013, 04:45 AM
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Sounds like you have two faulty timers. The thing you see on the diagram is not a fuse link, it is part of the internal timer buss. Your photo link is not working.

Eric
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Old 04-18-2013, 07:26 PM
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Thanks for the detail, I wasn't sure that it was a fusible link but that is all I thought it could be.

The original timer motor, and the timer motor in the replacement both worked before. Strange that both would fail in the exact same way now. I will try applying power to the motor leads to see if that gets it turning.
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Old 04-19-2013, 05:58 AM
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If the timer motors check out ok, you need to do some continuity checks. Check continuity between yellow wire on lid switch and timer. There is more than one yellow wire at timer so you will have to trace the wire. This is the power hot side to the timer. Nuetral to the timer is through the water level pressure switch in agitate mode and through bypass contacts in timer during spin.

Eric
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Old 04-19-2013, 09:52 AM
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I removed the timer motor from both timers, and tested each one by plugging the leads into a wall socket. Both motors started turning immediately, quiet and smooth. I checked for power on the black L1 line into the timer connector and got power there. The ON light comes on when I pull the button out. The micro switch for the lid works fine. I have continuity across the lid switch, black to red, and since the power light comes on and I have power on the yellow to the timer, means I have power to the main switch side of the 12B internal bus.

Since the timer motors work fine out of the timer, but not in the timer means I have a failed internal bus. Which also explains why the functions that work are the ones external to the bus. If I manually turn the control through certain functions, like permanent press rinse, or delicate agitate and then spin, or the regular spin, the washer works. So some functions work external of the timer. Means I need to buy another timer. Still not sure what caused the contact burn on the first replacement timer unless it was some short on the internal bus.
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