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I have a front loading LG washer--WM2496HSM about 5 years old
When it is in the spin cycle it shakes pretty bad... enough to make the machine walk several inches.
It is level front to back and right to left.
Any idea? There are some shock absorber like things you can see when you flip the machine.
I do not want to replace them (3) if it will not fix the problem. Any idea how to take them out--if you think they are the problem.
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Originally Posted by: GaryDZ  I have a front loading LG washer--WM2496HSM about 5 years old
When it is in the spin cycle it shakes pretty bad... enough to make the machine walk several inches.
It is level front to back and right to left.
Any idea? There are some shock absorber like things you can see when you flip the machine.
I do not want to replace them (3) if it will not fix the problem. Any idea how to take them out--if you think they are the problem. Gary, Before replacing anything, Are there any knocking or banging noises in the spin cycle ? Make sure the washer is level and the rear leveling leg nuts are tight. Slip a business card under the front feet and start a spin cycle, when the drum reaches the highest spin speed, try pulling the cards out from under the feet, adjust the feet, until you cant move the card, and lock the leg nuts in place. part, put 4.5 to 6.5 lbs of clothing in the tub. Once loaded, press power, Rinse+Spin and the start/pause button in sequence. When the machine is spinning in high speed, verify that it is stable. Make sure there is no movement or vibration in the floor as well. If the issue is the damper(s) Part number: AP4438641
They're held in place by a "hinge" pin Part number: AP4437237
You'll need to pres down on the locking tab(a socket of the same size works good) and extract the pin(s) from the tub and base mounts.
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Joe,
Thanks...
not sure if i would describe it as knocking or banging noises... but there is a noise--- best i can describe is a "Machine-Gun" like noise. I contributed it to the vibration.
I will give the card test a try. I leveled it when it was stopped.
Is they any way to test the Damper if i take it out. Example: Take each one out-- and compress it by hand?
When the machine is off.... I can move the drum by hand pretty easy. ( do not bean rotate)
Also... Are the hing pins reusable? If it comes down to replacing the Dampers---do I need to buy all new pins as well?
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Originally Posted by: GaryDZ Joe,
Thanks...
not sure if i would describe it as knocking or banging noises... but there is a noise--- best i can describe is a "Machine-Gun" like noise. I contributed it to the vibration.
I will give the card test a try. I leveled it when it was stopped.
Is they any way to test the Damper if i take it out. Example: Take each one out-- and compress it by hand?
When the machine is off.... I can move the drum by hand pretty easy. ( do not bean rotate)
Also... Are the hing pins reusable? If it comes down to replacing the Dampers---do I need to buy all new pins as well? Gary, Now it sounds a bit more involved. Try this, open the door and carefully reach into the tub and try to raise and lower the inner spin basket, there should be less than 1/4 inch movement/play in the basket. The "machine gun" noise, could be the inner basket tapping the outer tub, due to a bearing or drum shaft issue, did you notice if there were any loose or damaged dampers or mounts? Yes, the hinge pins are reusable if you don't damage them in the removal process, but new pins are supplied with the new dampers, so no issue there.
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Joe,
Thanks Again... I want to give you some follow-up. With the washer empty, I can squeeze the drum at the bottom of the opening and move it toward the front about 0.5 inches (front to back). Trying to lift up on the drum from the inside (up/down)... no motion at all.
I took out one of the dampers---- not what I expected. It is like a shock absorber, but no spring or air tight plunger. it come apart easily. and compresses/opens with some effort--- only due to a rubber gasket.
Do you think I should try replacing all of the dampers? The machine is level in all planes. Front/back and diagonal.
Thanks Again...
PS do you know about refrigerators too?
I have an Arctica GE PS123ngmb bb It is getting too cold, no matter what I have the temp set to. More Info:
The refrig was in the house when I bought it... It is empty and seldom opened, since we are no yet living there---in case that matters--- I just read it might.
I will post it in the correct place---but thought I'd ask you first.
Thanks
GaryDZ
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Originally Posted by: GaryDZ Joe,
Thanks Again... I want to give you some follow-up. With the washer empty, I can squeeze the drum at the bottom of the opening and move it toward the front about 0.5 inches (front to back). Trying to lift up on the drum from the inside (up/down)... no motion at all.
I took out one of the dampers---- not what I expected. It is like a shock absorber, but no spring or air tight plunger. it come apart easily. and compresses/opens with some effort--- only due to a rubber gasket.
Do you think I should try replacing all of the dampers? The machine is level in all planes. Front/back and diagonal.
Thanks Again...
PS do you know about refrigerators too?
I have an Arctica GE PS123ngmb bb It is getting too cold, no matter what I have the temp set to. More Info:
The refrig was in the house when I bought it... It is empty and seldom opened, since we are no yet living there---in case that matters--- I just read it might.
I will post it in the correct place---but thought I'd ask you first.
Thanks
GaryDZ Gary, The dampers on a front load washer work very similar to a shock absorber on a car. The test is very similar as well, push the tub assembly down as far as possible, and release it. the tub should return to the original position in one "fluid" movement. The information on the tub movement and play, indicates there's no issues in the tub bearings or shaft assembly. Hopefully there's nothing between the tubs, or the stator and rotor aren't tapping each other. As for the refrigerator, All refrigerators have a tendency to run cold when not being used. Refrigerators are designed to expect to see several door openings per day or week. When that doesn't occur or there is little or no "load" (articles in the machine) the refrigerator will run cold. You may want to reset the controls a couple of settings warmer, or set the control to the vacation mode(if available) until you get into the house.
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Thanks for all your help...
I am going to try to see if replacing the three dampers helps with the problem. I just ordered them through one of the links in your response.
Everything else seems to be OK... Nothing visible worn or broken or binding. I have no way of telling what the "right" amount of resistance should be on the dampers.
I'll let you know how it works out.
Thanks for the info about the refrig as well... We should be spending more and more time at the new house---using the refrigerator.
Gary
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Originally Posted by: GaryDZ Thanks for all your help...
I am going to try to see if replacing the three dampers helps with the problem. I just ordered them through one of the links in your response.
Everything else seems to be OK... Nothing visible worn or broken or binding. I have no way of telling what the "right" amount of resistance should be on the dampers.
I'll let you know how it works out.
Thanks for the info about the refrig as well... We should be spending more and more time at the new house---using the refrigerator.
Gary Gary, OK, let us know what happens with the dampers. Reset the controls on the refrigerator for the time being, or set a two or three 1 gallon bottles of water in the freezer and refrigerator, to simulate a "load".
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Joe,
I hope you do not mind, you are my Go-To person for help. I do not know if you work for the company that sent me the product---but great service and fast shipping.
I have another unrelated question---if you can help. (End of this post)
Update on the dampers. I replaced all three and it helped a little. I think I will just live with it as it is. I made sure it was level in all directions Front/Back, Right/Left and Diagonal. I ended up putting it on a 3/4" piece of plywood and that seemed to help a lot. The wood dampens the vibration and it no longer walks. My Flooring is fine---hardwood, not warped. It seems to work good enough this way.
NEW QUESTION:
I just "inherited" a Panasonic Microwave Genius series 1350W.
Everything seems to work fine, except the back lighting of the LED. The LED works.... just is VERY Dim.
Panasonic Microwave Genius series 1350W.
Model: NN – T9938F
Serial: 6A83250087
Aug 2003
I found a few sites that sell parts. One of the parts is called a Display. Part # AEDDHJ5W00AP. Do you think this will fix the problem? Do you guys sell them?
Is there any place to D/L a service manual for free? I have the owner's manual.
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New question about the refrig.... So originally it was running too cold. Set at the highest temp.... still freezing soda---seldom used. door oped once ever few days.
Now that we are there every day.... set at the coldest level, it is only cooling to about 52 degrees F?
I have turned off the refrig at the breaker.... and turned it back on after 90 sec. Any ideas what to try? I feel like Goldie Locks--- too cold.... too warm.
Just moved into the house budget is tight.
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