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The error codes are via the front panel status indicators. Check your manual. Eric

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Old 04-30-2013, 04:38 PM
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The error codes are via the front panel status indicators. Check your manual.

Eric

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  #12 (permalink)  
Old 05-17-2013, 01:43 PM
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Since I was having the same lid lock problem described by stinkyq22 my husband replaced the shift actuator. I did not run an entire cycle; however, the lid lock did not blink during sensing like it had been so for now I'm assuming it's fixed that problem. Another problem surfaced once he got underneath...oil on the shield covering the belt/pulley area. Any suggestions about what might be causing this? He did not find a manual inside. This model (MVWX500XW1) does not have a front panel status indicator.
Thanks.
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Old 05-17-2013, 02:32 PM
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Probably a leaking transmission, another common problem with this washer. This Whirlpool washer design is a total piece of junk. An astounding number of failures on a 3 year old design.

Eric
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Old 03-26-2014, 05:06 PM
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Yep I'm currently running into this exact same problem with my less than 3 yr. old lightly used MVWC300XW0 Maytag Centennial washer. Door lock light flashes after the machine tries to go into any kind of spin mode. Luckily it will actually spin out at low speed after a wash cycle and even then go on to the rinse cycle with the load. Only after the rinse cycle does it actually stop the washer after attempting to spin out with the door lock light flashing and after about 5 minutes, it will then just sit with the just spin light illuminated solid and then unlock the door. At least the clothes weren't soaked with soapy water . They were just soaking wet . I was able to get it to run 1/2 the time thru a spin by selecting drain & spin on the control knob. But it finally stopped spinning after doing that as well, even after trying it repeatedly.
After tilting it back and looking up underneath, I had found out that luckily my washer did have a service manual taped to the inside of the front cabinet by the tub. Reading thru the manual, I've performed the trouble code retrieval and found 3 codes. 1) Main control, 2) key code fault of some sort which occurs only during the diagnostic procedure?, and 3) a basket speed fault. Then performing the electrical checks for the main control trouble code fault, I come to find out that the shift actuator's optical speed sensor circuit shows very low voltage at 2.15V. versus the needed 13+V. So, according to the service manual the shift actuator is to be replaced if after checking out that the wiring is ok and not shorted out between the control and the shift actuator. After unplugging the actuator harness from the control, the voltage would actually rise to 13.2v. inside the control board. So, perhaps the optical speed sensor was sapping the main control's voltage supply to it. So, I'm awaiting the arrival of the shift actuator as I had typed this and will update if it's fixed or not...

Last edited by ShadeTree231 : 03-26-2014 at 05:10 PM.
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Old 03-27-2014, 06:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShadeTree231 View Post
Yep I'm currently running into this exact same problem with my less than 3 yr. old lightly used MVWC300XW0 Maytag Centennial washer. Door lock light flashes after the machine tries to go into any kind of spin mode. Luckily it will actually spin out at low speed after a wash cycle and even then go on to the rinse cycle with the load. Only after the rinse cycle does it actually stop the washer after attempting to spin out with the door lock light flashing and after about 5 minutes, it will then just sit with the just spin light illuminated solid and then unlock the door. At least the clothes weren't soaked with soapy water . They were just soaking wet . I was able to get it to run 1/2 the time thru a spin by selecting drain & spin on the control knob. But it finally stopped spinning after doing that as well, even after trying it repeatedly.
After tilting it back and looking up underneath, I had found out that luckily my washer did have a service manual taped to the inside of the front cabinet by the tub. Reading thru the manual, I've performed the trouble code retrieval and found 3 codes. 1) Main control, 2) key code fault of some sort which occurs only during the diagnostic procedure?, and 3) a basket speed fault. Then performing the electrical checks for the main control trouble code fault, I come to find out that the shift actuator's optical speed sensor circuit shows very low voltage at 2.15V. versus the needed 13+V. So, according to the service manual the shift actuator is to be replaced if after checking out that the wiring is ok and not shorted out between the control and the shift actuator. After unplugging the actuator harness from the control, the voltage would actually rise to 13.2v. inside the control board. So, perhaps the optical speed sensor was sapping the main control's voltage supply to it. So, I'm awaiting the arrival of the shift actuator as I had typed this and will update if it's fixed or not...
ShadeTree, You've got it diagnosed properly, and ready to repair. Just remember to make sure you have a good tight fit on the connector and wires to the actuator when you install the part.
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Old 03-29-2014, 09:47 AM
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Well another update, I got the new optical speed sensor/shift actuator assembly installed today. I did some preliminary testing on its optical speed sensor to see if there were any changes in volt readings vs. the old one. Needless to say, I got an even lower reading of 1.81V (vs. the old one's 2.15V) with the new unit installed and plugged in to the main control. The manual calls for a 13V reading! So, I was beginning to wonder either I got a faulty new unit, there's something wrong with the main control's power supply circuit for that sensor, or the simply that the manual's test procedure calling for a 13V reading with the optical speed sensor plugged into the main control is incorrect. After checking that, I cleared all the trouble codes & then had the machine calibrate itself before then starting it.
Before starting it though, I wanted to observe the wash load in the machine as it was running. The only way I could do this was to remove the door lock latch off the door and plug it into the door lock unattached to the door. I held it in place with tape so it wouldn't move around in the lock either. This would allow me to lift the door at any time, or to prop it open to look at it continuously.
I ran two loads of wash thru it-with the first load a fairly medium size, and the second load a heavy, more typical, load. The machine did fine with both loads, finishing in at ~70 mins. for both. Everything went smoothly as far as I could tell. I then afterwards checked for trouble codes and there were none. So, perhaps other than replacing with a known good one, there is no real accurate way of testing a for failing (ie not completely dead) optical speed sensor? BTW I did perform the tach test, and the old sensor did flash all the led lights as it should and I did this for several minutes to see if anything weird happened, it did fine.
Hope my experience helps someone out...
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Old 03-31-2014, 07:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShadeTree231 View Post
Well another update, I got the new optical speed sensor/shift actuator assembly installed today. I did some preliminary testing on its optical speed sensor to see if there were any changes in volt readings vs. the old one. Needless to say, I got an even lower reading of 1.81V (vs. the old one's 2.15V) with the new unit installed and plugged in to the main control. The manual calls for a 13V reading! So, I was beginning to wonder either I got a faulty new unit, there's something wrong with the main control's power supply circuit for that sensor, or the simply that the manual's test procedure calling for a 13V reading with the optical speed sensor plugged into the main control is incorrect. After checking that, I cleared all the trouble codes & then had the machine calibrate itself before then starting it.
Before starting it though, I wanted to observe the wash load in the machine as it was running. The only way I could do this was to remove the door lock latch off the door and plug it into the door lock unattached to the door. I held it in place with tape so it wouldn't move around in the lock either. This would allow me to lift the door at any time, or to prop it open to look at it continuously.
I ran two loads of wash thru it-with the first load a fairly medium size, and the second load a heavy, more typical, load. The machine did fine with both loads, finishing in at ~70 mins. for both. Everything went smoothly as far as I could tell. I then afterwards checked for trouble codes and there were none. So, perhaps other than replacing with a known good one, there is no real accurate way of testing a for failing (ie not completely dead) optical speed sensor? BTW I did perform the tach test, and the old sensor did flash all the led lights as it should and I did this for several minutes to see if anything weird happened, it did fine.
Hope my experience helps someone out...
Shade Tree, Thanks for the update information. Low DC voltage, can be "tricky" to test for, and can give a lot of false readings. Quite often, you have to use the L1 power supply as a "common" ground lead and test the DC voltage supply wires for the correct voltage. But based on the information, you'll be fine for quite a while. Thanks Again.
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Old 04-22-2014, 11:29 PM
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Following this thread as I have same problem with a Kenmore,
The actuator part # is the same for my machine also.
Wanted to help anyone else trying to find the diagnostic sheet for the error codes. I took my washer apart and could not find the sheet.
Decided to look again - took it apart again and it was taped onto the front panel (on the metal front facing of the tub enclosure). It was easy to miss the first time I looked, had to apply pressure to move the drum/tub over to even be able to see it.
Makes me think that us homeowners are NOT supposed to find the darn thing when it is hidden like that.
So finding the codes - how to run the diagnostics- and recalibrate etc -- could be different for all the models - and without that diagnostic code sheet -- very frustrating.
So make sure to really search for it in the machine.
Mine was glued on & in a plastic bag that had to be ripped to get it off the machine.
Thanks for all the info shared in this thread. It has been a huge help!!
Appreciated.
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Old 04-23-2014, 06:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wash3r View Post
Following this thread as I have same problem with a Kenmore,
The actuator part # is the same for my machine also.
Wanted to help anyone else trying to find the diagnostic sheet for the error codes. I took my washer apart and could not find the sheet.
Decided to look again - took it apart again and it was taped onto the front panel (on the metal front facing of the tub enclosure). It was easy to miss the first time I looked, had to apply pressure to move the drum/tub over to even be able to see it.
Makes me think that us homeowners are NOT supposed to find the darn thing when it is hidden like that.
So finding the codes - how to run the diagnostics- and recalibrate etc -- could be different for all the models - and without that diagnostic code sheet -- very frustrating.
So make sure to really search for it in the machine.
Mine was glued on & in a plastic bag that had to be ripped to get it off the machine.
Thanks for all the info shared in this thread. It has been a huge help!!
Appreciated.
Wash3r, Thanks for the input, it should be helpful to others who decide to take on a DIY project. Your guess is correct, the tech data sheet and diagnosis information will vary by model or serial number, so you can't really count on a "general" code or diagnostics chart. You really need to find that tech data sheet, or attempt to get a copy of it, it makes diagnosis and repair a lot easier. Thanks Again
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Old 04-23-2014, 06:42 AM
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Thanks for the info re: the "hidden" diagnostic code sheet. Not sure this will help as my machine does not have the digital front panel. I posted another problem (on 4/14/14-"clicking noise"). Haven't received any replies. When shift actuator was replaced, noticed oil leaking from the shield. Expert noted it was probably transmission. Clicking is most noticeable during spin, especially as it slows. Gets worse after 2 consecutive loads. I do not notice the clicking during wash cycle. By the 3rd or 4th load it is slightly noticeable during sensing. Not sure which part might need replacing. Gearcase? Motor-drive?
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