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Hopefully, someone can help me narrow the potential solutions down. Every site I check gives a different answer. I read

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Old 03-24-2013, 05:26 PM
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Default Maytag top load - drains & spins but clothes still wet
Model Number: MAV 208 daWW   Brand: Maytag   Age: 5 - 10 years   

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Hopefully, someone can help me narrow the potential solutions down. Every site I check gives a different answer. I read some of these suggestions - logically, they just don't seem to make sense to me?

I'm very handy and mechanical - so anything that is suggested is not beyond my ability.

Maytag - Model Mav -208-DAWW


The washer does everything but ...the spin doesn't do the final FAST spin to get all of the water out of the clothes. There is no visible water left in the inner tub, the external drain hose is not glogged. The washer is level.

The fact that it spins but that it doesn't do the very fast speed spin...which physics tells me pulls the last of the water out ... says what?

is there a 'timer' setting that kicks it into the speed spin specifically?


Some online say... If the pump hose or pump is clogged - with even so much as a pin or paperclip, etc. , but I would think it wouldn't drain at all if there were an obstruction?

I didn't take the inner hose off but I did unhook one end of it and a lot of water came out - is this typical to be expected of residual in the hose or pump?





Lastly - how in the world would you get between the inner and outer drum to see if something is caught there? And...if that were the case, again, wouldn't the drum not spin at all?

Thanks for any suggestion that could help narrow this whole situation down ...while I may be handy & mechanical - my disadvantage is that I am working in an area of very little space, short of moving the washer completely out of the narrow laundry room and I am just not that into it :-)

Liz


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Old 03-24-2013, 06:57 PM
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The washer either spins on low speed or high speed depending on the wash cycle you have selected. For a regular or normal wash, it will spin on high speed. There is a brake, clutch and belt tension spring on the motor so these three things will cause the actual basket spin speed to vary as the water is spun out of the clothes eventually getting up to around 620rpm if everything is working properly. Reach up under the basket between the basket and outer tub and feel for any clothing that may be caught in there. If that's clear, I would first tilt the machine back, remove the belt and rotate the pump pulley to make sure it spins freely. Then check that the motor pivots freely. Then check the brake adjustment. Pull the cap off of the bottom of the main drive pulley. Rotate the pulley CCW until you feel the pressure of the brake releasing. The reference arrow on the cam should fall between the reference ridges on the pulley. See bottom of page 2 of this service bulletin. Report back with your findings.

Water in the pump hoses is normal. Clothing between the tubs can do anything from slowing the spin speed to stopping it altogether, depends on whats in there.

Eric

Last edited by fairbank56 : 03-24-2013 at 07:00 PM.
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Old 03-24-2013, 07:40 PM
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Eric;

Thanks for such a quick reply. I'm anxious to get right on this but such a late hour is stopping me.

BTW...I'm not quite sure exactly how easy it will be to "Reach up under the basket between the basket and outer tub and feel for any clothing that may be caught in there."

There is a way to do this short of removing the agitator, the rim, the inner tub ( i.e. basket) etc...that you say, 'reach up under'? If so, please tell me how - anything is better than taking all of that apart...given the way everyone says it is so easy to check, there must be. :-)

Thanks again,
Liz
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Old 03-24-2013, 09:30 PM
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Well, actually, your just probing with your fingers between the basket and the outer tub cover. This is where clothing typically gets caught on this washer. It is possible for clothing to get past this point and get further down between the basket and tub at which point you would have to at least open the top panel and remove the outer tub cover to be able to better see down between the tubs. If it's down too far or between them at the bottom, you would have to remove the basket. Not that difficult on this machine. Just remove the agitator and the four bolts holding the basket down. Pump problems have been a common problem with slow spin speed symptoms. If the water doesn't get pumped out fast enough before spin speed builds up, water gets trapped between the tubs and can't get to the pump. Excessive sudsing due to using too much detergent can also cause slow spin, but as I said, other things can cause slow spin. Motor pivot problems causing the belt to slip, improper brake release, bad tub bearing, bad clutch spring in the transmission...etc.

Eric

Eric
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Old 03-25-2013, 06:48 PM
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Thanks Eric...I didn't get a message that you had replied again...just came by to update you. I have the top open and front off and splash rim off of tubs:
Nothing in-between tubs - shone a light up from under.
Motor pivots, at least manually - as obviously I have unplugged the machine :-)
The pump pulley belt rotates easily - however I didn't take it off yet. I'm afraid I won't get it back on.
All that is left is the brake adjsutment that you described...getting to that and will get back - once I figure out which is the brake :-) I'll figure it out.

Lisa
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Old 03-25-2013, 09:37 PM
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Newest update: From underneath _ of the 3 things connected by a belt; one is the water pump - it is clean inside, nothing in it, same for the pump hose. The white plastic gear-like looking part of the transmission I assume, and the motor - look good to me, for what I know. Not worn, super tension, and all three parts rotate freely when the best is off. Yes, I took it off.

And I still don't know where the brake is...you got me there.
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Old 03-26-2013, 05:53 AM
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Did you check the reference marks on the bottom of the pulley as I suggested? The brake is just above the drive pulley (center pulley). This pulley drives the transmission input shaft via a two part cam setup. The lower cam is on the very bottom of the input shaft below the pulley. The upper cam is an integral part of the drive pulley hub. When the pulley goes in the CCW (viewed from below) direction the two cams begin to rotate together but the lower cam which is splined to the input shaft will only rotate until the "anti-backup" pinion gear in the transmission stops it. Now the upper cam "rides" up the lower cam so the pulley moves upwards. There is a thrust bearing on the upper side of the pulley that pushes up on the brake rotor which is splined to the lower stem of the transmission housing. With the brake released, now the lower cam can drive the input shaft again which will now turn the whole transmission housing. The upper stem of the transmission housing is attached to the basket. When spin stops the spring in the brake pushes the brake rotor back down, the lining on the spinning rotor contacts the brake stator and stops it. The rotor being splined to the lower transmission stem, stops it and the basket. Hope I didn't lose you there. Anyway, rotate the pulley CCW and the brake should release and the basket should rotate, in theory. This doesn't always work so well when doing it by hand as the brake spring is exerting 200 pounds of force on the brake rotor. In actual operation, the motor provides much more force to get the spin going. So, at this point, everything else seems to check out ok, so that leaves the brake thrust bearing, cams or the tub bearing as possible problem areas. The thrust bearing and cams are relatively easy to replace and is a common failure point so I would suggest replacing it. It comes as a kit with new pulley, lower cam and bearing parts.

Eric

Last edited by fairbank56 : 03-26-2013 at 05:57 AM.
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Old 03-26-2013, 06:20 AM
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Hope I didn't lose you there <<< hummm. Of all of the parts that I took a pic of - the Thrush bearing kit is the one I kept off the web site - an omen. Yeah...you may have lost me there - taking 7 month old to day care and heading back to it...burn out last night fighting with getting the clamp and drain hose back on - tough little bugger.

Just to be sure - the pulley in line one of your comments is which one? The biggest one that looks like this part in web site? [FONT='Arial','sans-serif']http://www.appliancepartspros.com/whirlpool-thrust-bearing-kit-12002213-ap4009132.html#ixzz2OKYthiqF[/font]
[FONT='Arial','sans-serif'][/font]
[FONT='Arial','sans-serif']I have a pic but don't see where in quick reply to attach it?[/font]
[FONT='Arial','sans-serif'][/font]
[FONT='Arial','sans-serif'][/font]
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Old 03-26-2013, 06:42 AM
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Yes, that's the one. You must remove the cover/cap on the bottom of the pulley to see the reference marks.

Eric
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Old 03-26-2013, 07:14 AM
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Ok..heading back there now - with your directions in hand and a fressh coffee. I did see that but I also saw a sticker about the pounds on it and wasn't sure of that force - obviously it is when it is moving. I used to work on a high pressure petroleum pipeline and any time I see force, pressure, etc...I hesitate until I know exactly what I am looking at. Will holler back shortly - I hope :-)
Thanks again
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