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This loyal horse have been working with minor problems through his entire life , I must say that it is

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Old 03-15-2013, 08:26 AM
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Default motor doesnīt start
Model Number: WISQ416DT7WW   Brand: GE   Age: More than 10 years   

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This loyal horse have been working with minor problems through his entire life , I must say that it is in mint exterior conditions (no rust) , but since last year many problems arise , I change the water pump (noise) , the timer (plastic broken) , some knobs . Since I change the timer the motor doesnīt work at all. The water valve opens and start filling the basket, it ends when the level is OK , but nothing happens till the timmer advance to the drain cycle and refill again , never wash , never spins . At first guess I would think in the motor , but there might be some switch or the electronic board WH12X10026 that could have been damaged when the previous timmer broke into pieces(some strange noise was heard at that moment inside the panel control) , as I donīt have any manual , service bulletin , nor schematis , itīs very difficult to trace any problem. Could I ask some help in finding this data to see if I can solve the problem . Let me say that in our country I wouldnīt find any replacement for this board so I have to order from your company (if itīs available). Do you have any sugestion regarding how can I test the motor to discard the possibility burnt unit .?

Thanks for any help , any information or brochure that you think I can buy or gather would be very much appreciated.

Regards

Hugo


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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 03-15-2013, 10:35 AM
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The motor worked before replacing the timer??? If so, I'd say you may have a broken wire or have gotten a bad timer or the wrong timer. I can advise on making a test cable from an extension cord to test the motor if you have the tools and ability to do so? You'll need to strip the cable/wires and install quick-disconnect terminals. I may have the wiring diagram but I need a clear photo of the electronic control board to be sure it's the right one. There should have been a tech sheet with wiring diagram somewhere inside the control panel.

Eric
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Old 03-17-2013, 02:59 PM
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Thanks Eric for your answer , The motor was runing fine before , although the client told me that last year did have a problem with the motor (didn't start the motor), he send the washer to a service shop (probably he kept the information that should be under the control panel) , I would like to power the motor directly but without the wing diagram I don't feel very confident to do it (this is a 220v appliance) , regarding the electronic board , I test every component (diodes,caps ,transistors) and are OK , although I would like to test it powering it , but again I need th circuit to see what are the 2 relays in the board commanding and other outputs of this board. I will take a photo of the circuit board and send it .

Thanks again

Regards


Hugo
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Old 03-19-2013, 03:09 PM
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Eric , today a friend send me a schematic of the GE washer that might be the one I have , the number is 175D2750G086 , the electrical schematic is easy to understand, although there are some questions that you may help me , the program schematics have a lot of numbers and letters that I canīt figure what they mean , for example the column B8-U , B8-L , B7-U .......B1-L , what does it mean , in general, could you please explain for example the line

WASH SELECT R5 R4 B7-U is closed for 5 +5+7 degree increment etc
RINSE SELECT R5 R6 B7-L NO CURRENT fo 5+5+7+7.5 degree inc etc


could you put it in plain english . Thanks for any help .Would you need me to send you a copy of the information received for your database ? Let me know how and Iīll do it gladly .

Regards

Hugo
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Old 03-19-2013, 06:42 PM
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The timer has a drum in it that is rotated very slowly by the timer motor. The drum has 8 cams on it with high points and low points that activate the 8 switches in the timer. Each switch has three contact "blades". That's what the "B" stands for. The middle blade, also called the active blade, is common, the other two are the "upper" and "lower" blades, also called passive blades. The degree per increment is the number of degrees that the timer rotates for that increment. Each increment is approximately 3 minutes but varies due to cam engagement.

So, in your example, R5 is connected to active blade 7 (common), R4 is connected to the upper blade and R6 to the lower blade. As the drum rotates around, the active blade is either connected to the upper blade, the lower blade or neither, depending on where you are in the cycle.

I believe this is the wiring diagram for the U.S. version of your washer. Does it seem to be the same as yours?

Eric

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Old 04-04-2013, 02:27 PM
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Thanks Eric for your help , the information is very accurate , it helps a lot , and I hope I can trace the problem. Would you mind if I abuse for your help and ask what is the OL switch inside the doted circle in the HIGH/LOW motor , I donīt have continuity between M2 and M1 , is it correct ? And finally , do you think that I can power the motor out of the washer conecting 220 V AC between M6 and M1 , and between M5 and M1, and the last winding between M7 and M3 , (all this measurements , done taking out the harness conector to the motor, and polarizing with a separate cable connected to wall mains , with connectors to the motor ) .
Again Eric thanks a lot for your info.

Regards

Hugo
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Old 04-04-2013, 03:18 PM
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The OL is a thermal overload switch that will open if the motor is overloaded. It should self-reset when the motor cools but apparently yours has failed or the internal wiring to it has failed. You should normally have continuity between M1 and M2. You could apply your test cable across M2 and M6 for high speed operation and M2 and M5 for low speed operation. Of course, you must also apply power to the start winding between M3 and M7. Iv'e had a couple of these motors apart but don't recall any specific info on the overload switch.

Eric
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Old 04-05-2013, 04:12 AM
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Hi , Eric , thanks for your advice , the OL switch is open , it is located inside the coil , so would you agree that the motor is useless and you must throw it (and also the washer because in our country there isnīt any replacement new or used) OR the other possibility is to bypass the OL by bridging M1 and M2 , of course you donīt have a thermal protection , but at least you have a washer (donīt know for how long) . I will follow your recomendations BUT with the motor over the bench (without load) and try each coil . Iīll get back with the results

Regards

Hugo
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Old 04-05-2013, 05:49 AM
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If the motor runs fine when bypassing the overload on the bench and in the washer doing loads of laundry, then you could certainly use it but I would only do so if you are always going to be nearby and can monitor it while it's doing a load of wash. If this is a job you are doing for someone else, I wouldn't do it. If something went wrong, there is nothing to protect the motor and wiring in an overcurrent situation other than your circuit breaker which may or may not trip depending on the load. You don't have to bridge M1 and M2. Just cut the yellow wire and the orange wire a few inches from the motor, strip the two yellow wires and the orange wire that goes up to the lid switch and splice the three together, leaving the orange wire from M1 disconnected.

Eric
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Old 04-05-2013, 02:28 PM
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Thanks Eric , I could see perfectly well the OL switch over the coil itīs tight strongly with a tiny rope all around the coil, as you -with very professional judgement- recomend, I canīt eliminate the OL switch and give it to the customer , it wouldnīt be safe , so , Iīll will take the other route , I will change the OL without dissasembling the motor (remember it is welded), it will be a difficult task -I suppose- but perhaps I have more persistance than skills and I will do it . Do you have any idea of the model number or any information about the OL (temperature) the voltaje is for 220 V. Do you think that it would it be interesting for the forum some photos of the procedure ? .

Best regards

Hugo
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