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Calypso - bad relay?

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Our 6-year-old Whirlpool Calypso washer has been sometimes failing to start a cycle. When it fails, I usually get the

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Old 03-07-2013, 10:45 PM
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Default Calypso - bad relay?
Model Number: GVW9959KQ2   Brand: Whirlpool   Age: 5 - 10 years   

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Our 6-year-old Whirlpool Calypso washer has been sometimes failing to start a cycle. When it fails, I usually get the CE code. Other times I get no error code and the timer just counts down while the washer does nothing. On rare occasions I've heard the relay click rapidly, then it stops with a Sr code. Sometimes the washer just works fine, although that is becoming more and more rare.

I went through all of the troubleshooting tests in the repair manual and every resistance and voltage tested normal with one exception. The voltage to the motor control board (P1-1 to P1-2 or P16-1 to P16-5) was measuring about 20 VAC even when the relay was not energized and supposed to be open. On rare occasions when the washer would work, the relay would close and the voltage measured 124 VAC, the same as the incoming line voltage.

I figured I had a bad relay, so I ordered one for less than $10 and replaced it. The washer worked fine for about a month, but now it's back to the same problem.

I checked the voltages again and here is what I get with the relay open:
P16-2 to P16-4 (incoming line): 124 VAC
P16-1 to P16-5 (power to motor control board): 42 VAC
P16-1 to P16-2 (line neutral to switched neutral): 98 VAC

It seems like the relay has gone bad again. While this could be a coincidence, I think something is causing it to go bad.

Another thing I noticed was that the DC voltage across the lid switch and pressure switch measured about 15.5 V. Those connectors are labeled DC 12V. Perhaps this high voltage is also going to the relay coil and burning it out? Could my trouble be caused by a bad transformer?

I would appreciate any insight on this problem. I'm not sure whether to try replacing more parts on the machine control board, replace the machine control board, or just scrap the entire washer.

Thanks!
Ryan


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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 03-08-2013, 08:39 AM
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Is this a plug in relay or soldered in?

Eric
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Old 03-08-2013, 09:12 AM
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Thanks for your reply. The relay is soldered in, but was fairly easy to replace.
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Old 03-08-2013, 10:40 AM
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Ok, since you are experienced at soldering, I would closely examine the bottom of the circuit board with magnifying loupe and strong lighting for bad solder joints, especially around the wiring harness receptacles. Simply handling the board when replacing the relay may have been what fixed the problem. I'm an electronics technician by profession and bad solder joints are the number one problem I find when troubleshooting electronics equipment. Also, if you don't have a proper ESD safe workspace for servicing circuit boards, you should touch a suitable ground before handling the board and minimize moving around while handling it to prevent damage by static discharge. You could also test the relay that you removed before. I'm curious as to where you got it from and what part number?

Eric
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Old 03-08-2013, 01:06 PM
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Thanks for the info. I'll examine that board more closely and also test the relay I removed.

I don't have very much experience with soldering on a PCB, but given the cost of a new control board I was willing to give it a try. Maybe I should check my own solder joints. :-) The relay is a P&B T9AS1D12-12 and I got it from Newark. T9AS1D12-12 - TE CONNECTIVITY / POTTER & BRUMFIELD - POWER RELAY SPST-NO 12VDC, 30A | Newark

What about the transformer measuring 15.5 V when the relay is rated for 12? Do you think that is a concern?
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Old 03-08-2013, 05:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rwdst6 View Post
What about the transformer measuring 15.5 V when the relay is rated for 12? Do you think that is a concern?
Can't say for sure without seeing a schematic of the board which you will never find. There is a power suppy on the board that converts 120vac to 12vdc. Measuring across the open lid switch or pressure switch is not measuring across that 12v supply. In other words, pins 1 and 2 of that connector are not directly connected to the 12v return. You could try to check the voltage directly across the coil terminals of the relay while energized if possible to know for sure. If it's 15.5v there, that seems a little high but still no way to tell without a schematic. It may be perfectly normal.

Eric

Last edited by fairbank56 : 03-08-2013 at 05:24 PM.
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Old 03-09-2013, 08:51 AM
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The way the relay is positioned, I can't see how to measure it directly with everything hooked up. As you suggested, I removed the board and examined all the solder joints under a magnifying glass. Everything looked good to me, but I'm no expert. The soldering I did on the relay looked pretty sloppy, so I desoldered the relay and removed it. With it removed, I tested both relays. They appear to be fine. Open line with no voltage on the coil and less than 0.2 ohms with 12 VDC applied to the coil. I cleaned the contacts on the relay and board and resoldered the old relay in place. Still no luck with getting the washer to work, and I'm not sure what else to try.
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Old 03-09-2013, 09:07 AM
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Well, the CE and Sr codes indicate a problem with the machine control board. If you purchase it from here and it doesn't fix the problem, you can return it. Have you done a continuity check on the cable between the two circuit boards?

Eric
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Old 03-09-2013, 01:36 PM
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Yes, I checked the continuity of all wires between the two boards, as well as switch continuity and all the resistance checks indicated in the service manual. I'm thinking it's time to replace the board.
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Old 07-28-2014, 09:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rwdst6 View Post
Yes, I checked the continuity of all wires between the two boards, as well as switch continuity and all the resistance checks indicated in the service manual. I'm thinking it's time to replace the board.
How is your machine now ?
I got a similar problems like yours. Testing the P16-1 and P16-5 = 0V , so the manual says it s bad machine control board relay. How did you test the relay alone ?
Do you think we hard jump 120V from PIN 2-4 to 1-5 temporarily ?
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