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Washer Repair

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When I try and start the washer, the door locks and it starts sencing the load but then stops and

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Old 03-06-2013, 11:18 AM
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Model Number: Whirlpool WTW4950XW   Brand: Whirlpool   Age: 1 - 5 years   

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When I try and start the washer, the door locks and it starts sencing the load but then stops and clicks a few times and then the lid lock light flashes. The lid stays locked and I have to unplug to reset and open the lid. At first, the washer would stop at certain cycles, like rinsing or spinning, now it won't start at all and just locks the lid with the light flashing.


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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 03-06-2013, 03:21 PM
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Hi.

Check all the connectors at the control board and shifter assembly. Find the instructions inside the washer's cabinet.
There could be a bad lid switch, shorted or broken wire harness, bad shifter, bad control board.

Here are the breakdown diagrams and Gearcase, Motor and Pump parts for Whirlpool WTW4950XW2 - AppliancePartsPros.com

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Old 03-08-2013, 04:40 PM
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I found the diagnostics book inside and performed all the tests and diagnostics. All electrical tests check out. Have come to the conclusion it is either the shifter or the control board. When going through diagnostic tests, while checking the rpm/optical sensor on the shifter, when toggleing to test this all the led lights are supposed to go out and then rotate drum slowly by hand and the lights are supposed to come on one by one, but all the lights do not go out, the done led stays lit, therefore rotating the drum sequence does not function. This is where I am stumped as to is the shifter or the control panel. Any thoughts?
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Old 03-08-2013, 05:41 PM
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You can do some more testing if you have a multimeter. Do the tests outlined in the manual. Your checking for 13vdc at the shifter connector on the control board and checking for rpm sensor input as you very slowly rotate the basket (should switch between 0 and 5vdc). The shifter is a very high failure item in this washer. The rpm sensor is part of the shifter unit. The optical sensor fits up into the transmission housing. You only see this when you remove the shifter.

Eric

Last edited by fairbank56 : 03-08-2013 at 05:52 PM.
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Old 03-09-2013, 04:36 AM
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I did do the voltage test for the shifter and got 13 vdc. but did not do the rotating test to check for the vdc. I will check that today.
I also removed the shifter and had a look at it. The white arm that rides along the shifter cam seemed to be out of position riding on the back of the cam instead of in the groove. There is a tiny black switch this arm toggles, is that part of the optical sensor, or what is its purpose?
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Old 03-09-2013, 05:33 AM
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The switch tells the control unit whether its in agitate or spin mode. The arm of the shifter engages the cam within the splutch (splined clutch) which raises or lowers the basket drive gear. When lowered, the drive gear engages the main drive pulley. Internal splines in the basket drive gear engage splines on the transmission drive. In agitate, the basket drive gear is raised so the main drive pulley only turns the transmission agitator input shaft. The switch in the shifter basically confirms to the control unit, when the shifter has moved to the proper position.

Eric
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Old 03-09-2013, 06:14 AM
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Thanks for all your help, will check the rpm sensor input and hopefully will find that it's not reading and be able to replace the shifter. To replace the control board is just too expensive.
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Old 03-09-2013, 01:43 PM
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Well I performed all the multimeter tests, and they check out fine. Step 11 comfirms the vdc test for rpm input, I get the readings of 0 to +5vdc while turning the drum, so the next step is to go to #17 which is to replace the main control.
Thanks again for all your help.
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Old 03-09-2013, 02:42 PM
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What about where you mentioned "white arm that rides along the shifter cam seemed to be out of position riding on the back of the cam instead of in the groove"? Not sure what you are talking about there but if the shifter is not engaged properly with the cam in the splutch, that is a problem.

Eric
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Old 03-09-2013, 04:22 PM
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I adjusted the arm to ride in the proper groove, but it did not change anything. In diagnostic manual mode I can hear the shifter change into agitate and it starts to agitate both in gentle and heavy but when I toggle to the spin mode, both low and high, I can hear the shifter activate and the machine starts to spin but than stops a few seconds later and thats where everythings stops and the lid lock light flashes and you have to unplug machine to reset.
But all the mulutimeter checks show its all good.
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