[jimkNJ]

Greetings all,

I am working on a Kenmore Series 90 Washer - model 110.26912691

I started a load of clothes and when the washer finished filling, the agitator was trying to move, but was making a loud clicking sound. At the same time, the room lights were dimming in time with the clicking.

This happens on all speeds and all cycles, doesn't seem to be timer related.

If I try to spin the upper agitator, it only spins in one direction, so I believe the dogs are good.

So far I have replaced the transmission with a brand new unit.
I replaced the motor coupler, even though it looked perfect.
I have replaced the motor.
I have replaced the clutch. (Silver, mounted to the top of the transmission)
I have replaced the capacitor.
I have sunk too much money into repair parts to stop now, I must fix this issue.

When I replaced the transmission, I removed the steel basket from the inner plastic tub, as I wanted to clean the outer plastic tub itself - and there is nothing jammed between the inner and outer tubs.

I am at my wits end, can anyone kindly shed some light on this weird issue?

Thank you for any ideas you can throw my way.

Jim

[fairbank56]

Sounds like it could be a bad speed select switch. The motor always starts out in direct high speed, bypassing the speed switch, but once the motor starts, power is through the speed switch. If the speed switch is bad, the motor would shut off and when it slows down, it again gets power through the direct route so it's basically cycling on/off. This could however, be caused by bad timer contacts but I think it's more likely the speed switch. A faulty connection or broken wire could also cause the problem. The best way to find the problem for sure is to troubleshoot with multimeter but you won't be able to do that so I would try the speed switch. If you get the part from here, you can return it if it doesn't fix the problem.

Eric

[jimkNJ]

The problem occurs regardless of the position of this switch - Do you feel it still could be this switch? Do they go bad often?

Thank you for the replies - It is greatly appreciated.

Jim

[jimkNJ]

Also, should I be able to turn the lower agitator by hand while the machine is off?

I noticed when the machine is in spin mode, it takes some time to reach full speed. I can also stop the spinning basket with my hand fairly easily.

Thank you again,

Jim

[fairbank56]

Yes, it could still be the switch. I don't know how experienced or handy you are but you could jump it out as a test. Unplug the yel/blu wire and the wht/vio (the one on the 6/8 terminal) wire from the switch and jump them together. Best to use a short piece of wire with a male quick disconnect on each end. This will give low speed agitate after it fills. You should be able to turn the lower agitator by hand if the washer stopped in spin mode. You should not be able to easily stop the basket when spinning. This indicates a slipping clutch or bad drive block. You should have noticed a bad drive block when you pulled the inner tub. Where did you get your replacement clutch from? If you got it from amazon, it is a piece of junk that will only last for a few loads. Can you provide a clear photo of the wiring diagram and timer chart? It is located on the inside of the back panel at the top left. I don't have the exact diagram for your washer and there are many variations to the way these are wired. They are all Whirlpool direct drive designs but each model has wiring variations.

Eric

[jimkNJ]

I am very handy, just not very lucky when it comes to this washer. I don't recall the last time something beat me up so bad. Just cant make any headway.

The clutch was purchased from Sears Direct, as were all the parts I bought.

The drive block appeared normal and did not look worn or damaged.

I can get a photo from the machine later tonight once I arrive home from work.

As per your suggestion/advice - I ordered the part you listed in your reply.

Jim

[Nitro itch]

I am curious about your comment BR where clutch for Whirlpool was purchased. Are you speaking of the many aftermarket Whilpool design clutches available on line from many many sources? They seem identical to the OEM units that I have replaced. I have measured both clutch housing sizes and spring tension and can not fine much difference in them. However, I do see a big difference in the old clutches with 6 linings verses the new 3 lining types. Why did Whirlpool ever cut these back to 3?

[fairbank56]

The clutch is a common replacement item on these washers. People see these things going for $30-$40 on this site and others selling Whirlpool FSP parts. Then they go to amazon and find them for $8 being sold by various vendors. They are not Whirlpool FSP. They are junk, being much lighter in weight and the pads wear out after just a few loads of wash. I advise people to not buy appliance parts from amazon unless they are sure they are getting OEM parts, but that is not always so easy to determine. The 6 pad clutches and clutch bands are still available. My understanding is that the 6 pad clutch did not provide enough slippage when the brakes were not working properly (sticking/grabbing) leading to lots of broken couplers, so they went to 3 pads to compensate.

Eric

[jimkNJ]

Eric,

The switch arrived yesterday and I was able to install it in less than 10 minutes. Unfortunately the washer does the same exact thing with the new switch.

In light of all the parts I have already replaced, any thoughts on what to try next?

When I set the timer to SPIN to empty out the water from the test, the basket took awhile to get moving, and I could reach in and stop it fairly easily.

Thank you again,

Jim

[fairbank56]

As I said, it could be the timer, or a faulty connection/wire. The only way to determine for sure is to troubleshoot with a multimeter. Can you tell where the clicking sound is coming from? Try agitate with the pump removed from the motor to rule out the pump as the source of the noise? Did you get a photo of the wiring diagram?

Eric