[andyvh1959]

I have the common No Spin cycle issue. My Maytag washer would do everything normal: start, fill, agitate, rinse, but no spin to get the water out of the tub. Everytime it would go full timer cycle and stop. But the tub would be full of SOAPY water. Like it got to the spin cycle and stop, but the timer continued to the end of the cycle with the timer indicator at the end of the full cycle. Lift the lid to find it full of soapy water. I'd push the knob in, rotate the control/timer around to "just" into the spin cycle, with the lid down, and pulled the knob out, it would go ahead and spin to drain the tub.

I operated it this way for over a year, no problems other than I had to manually operate it into the spin cycle. But I also suspect it is not going through the rinse cycle either as the tub was always full of soapy water. Other than manually advancing it into the spin cycle to get it to drain, which it does normally, I've just put up with it. Planned to replace the timer some day as I figured that was the issue. Like I mentioned, other than the No-Spin all other functions seemed normal and the washer run fine.

Last week my gal loaded the washer for the Delicate cycle (she just moved in, I never used any other cycle other than normal wash). Lid down, it filled and started like normal, but about five minutes later it sounded to me like it was working hard. I came back to check on it, still running, but smelled a "burnt" smell, so I shut it down. Power cord was warm like it was drawing more than normal power/amps. Tub was full of water and it had not started the Delicate cycle (no agitiate on Delicate). I manually unloaded it and siphoned out the water.

Lid switch is good, confirmed with my VOM to have continuity across the red to yellow when the lid is closed. So I doubt it's the common lid switch issue. I wonder if I need to replace the timer/control? But could it also be the brake did not release for the Delicate cycle and the motor got warm trying to start the cycle against the brake? I have never worked on this washer nor have I replaced any parts on it since it was new in 2000. Any help is appreciated before I just start throwing new parts into it.

[Gene]

Hello,

Open the control panel and remove the front panel.

Remove the timer. Disconnect the wire plug from the timer and remove the shield. Check all terminals and contacts for a burned spots.

Tilt the washer back. Remove and check the belts.

Remove the hoses from the drain pump and check for a clogs.

Post the results.

Here are the breakdown diagrams and Parts for Maytag LAT9604AAE Washer - AppliancePartsPros.com

Gene.

[andyvh1959]

I suspect it is the timer-control. I will check the timer-control for any burned contacts, as that is what I expected to find. I doubt there is a drain clog as the washer has always drained normally and about at the same rate. However it is worth checking.

[andyvh1959]

Got the timer out. There is a good sized dark area on the timing wheel assembly. From the knob side counting in, the dark areas on the timing wheel are sectors five and six from the knob shaft side. From the side of the timer, when you view the area where the ends of the contacts look like little hammers following the notches on the timing sector, there is one "hammer" end missing entirely. Sure looks like a burned area to me so I will replace the timer assembly to start with.
[IMG]http://********************.us/a/img850/3786/sectorburnstimercontrol.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://********************.us/a/img19/1774/burnedcontacttimer.jpg[/IMG]

[Gene]

You are on the right track. Just in case if you need it the timer Part number: 22001026

Gene.

[andyvh1959]

I got lucky and found a new OEM timer, no box, for $60 with free shipping on ********. So given that the original timer had definitely failed I didn't feel bad about spending some bucks on the timer at less than 1/2 cost of new.

Hopefully the main motor and brake still work fine. We'll see.Thanks for the help.

[andyvh1959]

I installed the new timer/control. Before starting it, I checked all the connections and fuse, lid switch/actuator, belt, motor (just sniffed it to try and catch any "burned" smell). All looked good, so hooked up the hoses and tried a small load of just water and it went through the cycle normally. All functions seemed to work ok.

So I next did a small load. Ran through full cycle just fine. But I noted the clothes were quite wet/dripping after the spin cycle finished. I should note, there is perhaps a 1/2" of water remaining in the clothes tub after I remove the clothes. The clothes are dripping wet, certainly more wet than when it finished the full cycle in the past. I can wring excess water from the clothes easily.

Same for the other loads I've done. Clothes are definitely much more wet after the full cycle finishes. Is there a higher speed for the spin cycle after the rinse cycle has expelled the majority of the water? I watched the last load, and then advanced the control manually around to the spin cycle and started it again. The washer started spinning but also adding fresh water as it spun, like it is still on the rinse cycle. I did confirm the lid switch is actuating with my VOM.

So far I've done laundry with it as is. But I don't like putting the excessively wet laundry into the dryer as I suspect the dryer is not made to handle clothes that wet all the time. A 60 minute cycle in the dryer for a load of six pair of jeans doesn't get them dry. Other searches indicate it is the clutch that needs replacement. I can retate the inner/clothes tub by hand with some resistance in either direction.

[Gene]

You may want to check the belts but this

...The washer started spinning but also adding fresh water as it spun, like it is still on the rinse cycle...

points to a bad timer. Return it if there is any warranty.

Gene.

[andyvh1959]

Hopefully that is not the case. The timer was advertised on ******** as an OEM brand new part not in the box, no warranty.

It looked unused. But the price at $60 now has me wondering.

Andy

[Gene]

You still can order the timer from APP and return it back if it would not fix the problem.

Gene.