[jwaite]

Is there a way to bypass the magnetic lid lock ? Machine does part of a cycle then the lid lock light starts to flash and it does not finished.

[fairbank56]

The problem is most likely not the lid lock. If it was faulty, it wouldn't go through any part of the cycle. When does the cycle stop?

There are two switches in the lid lock, only one of them being activated by the magnet in the lid strike. It is not a simple matter to defeat this type of lid lock.

Eric

[jwaite]

Originally Posted by fairbank56

The problem is most likely not the lid lock. If it was faulty, it wouldn't go through any part of the cycle. When does the cycle stop?

There are two switches in the lid lock, only one of them being activated by the magnet in the lid strike. It is not a simple matter to defeat this type of lid lock.

Eric

The cycle will stop shortly after the spin starts. Sometimes I can get it to work though.

[fairbank56]

Sounds like a problem with the shift actuator or the connectors/wiring to the actuator. Loose connections, faulty connections, broken wires are a big problem with this washer and the shift actuator is a high failure item. I would check the connections at the shift actuator under the bottom of the machine and at the control board behind the control panel. See this website for more information on the vertical modular washer design which is what yours is. You can run diagnostic tests on different things but if your problem is intermittent, it may not show up on the tests. There is the possibility that it is a lid latch problem if the contacts in it are intermittent. Also check the connectors/wires at the motor and capacitor.

Shame on Whilpool for putting this thing on the market without adequate testing. It has been nothing but problems.

Eric

[jdavidmatthews3]

I know I'm a little late to the party, but thought I'd add another ridiculous problem with these washers: due to the main drive pulley nut not being sufficiently torqued down/sealed with threadlocker (which WP has started doing, but it seems the threadlocker they use isn't quite strong enough in some cases) and it will work loose. If you tip back the washer and remove the insulation, a dead giveaway is the pulley cover (held on with two 5/16" screws) will be worn through by the pulley. Take the cover off, get some good heavy duty threadlocker (I use the red "permanent" grade), and then torque the devil out of that nut.

The pulley coming loose will cause similar problems to what the original poster mentioned. Usually with this one you don't even need to replace any parts. It's a pretty easy fix, it's just kind of irritating that such a glaring problem would get past quality control.