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My washer is in the basement and drains up past the drop ceiling and quite a distance to the sewer. When the spin cycle stops water comes back down the line into the tub. Can I add a pvc check valve to the drain line to keep the water out?
Or, since the total drain distance is about 30 feet including the 7 vertical feet, would I be better off installing a trap near the ceiling and then go directly out through the sill plate to the sewer vent pipe that is sticking out of the ground right next to the house where my drain would come out? The total distance then would be about 10'. I'm leary of adding a check valve because of possible clogging and flooding. That, and the fact the pump must be working overtime already.
I think I'm wearing out the pump pushing all that distance, and yes I know Nothing is to code.
This is a very old cottage that was turned into a year around house by the previous owner.
Can the trap be of 3/4 or 1" pvc and then connect to the 1 1/2" pipe outside?
Would that size be sufficient to block sewer gas?
Space is limited, should I use a different kind of trap?
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Can you post a model number so we can make sure what kind of machine you have.
Thanks
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Originally Posted by: sidfink43  Can you post a model number so we can make sure what kind of machine you have.
Thanks Stylemaster #622797 Is that the model number? Washer model KAWE450V 450VWHO Serial # C93701800
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Ok, thanks. Just so you know for the future, the KAWE450V is your model number and you have a basic Whirlpool Direct Drive washer.
I have say I am impressed that the machine will pump water up a 7ft vertical rise. I did not know that it would do that, but you are correct to be concerned about the wear on the machine if you continue to do this. You should know that your pump is a mechanical one that is driven off of the motor, so the problem is ultimately going to be the motor wearing out, a somewhat costly repair, but not a difficult one for you to do yourself.
Also, I don't think a trap will do what you want it to do, and that when the machine shuts off the water will just siphon back into the tub, the same problem you have now. I think a check valve is the way to go on this, and if down the line you have to replace the motor in the washer, well so be it, that part of the price of your set up, which you cannot help. If you need to you can clean out the line every now and then.
A second alternative would be to make a sump hole in your basement, have the machine drain into the sump and have a sump pump to pump the water out to wherever you want it to go. This will take the strain off of the washer, but you will still need a check valve, and eventually the lint and stuff in the washer discharge water will clog the sump pump and it will have to be replaced, but they are cheaper than a washer motor.
Good luck.
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Rank: Member
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Originally Posted by: sidfink43 Ok, thanks. Just so you know for the future, the KAWE450V is your model number and you have a basic Whirlpool Direct Drive washer.
I have say I am impressed that the machine will pump water up a 7ft vertical rise. I did not know that it would do that, but you are correct to be concerned about the wear on the machine if you continue to do this. You should know that your pump is a mechanical one that is driven off of the motor, so the problem is ultimately going to be the motor wearing out, a somewhat costly repair, but not a difficult one for you to do yourself.
Also, I don't think a trap will do what you want it to do, and that when the machine shuts off the water will just siphon back into the tub, the same problem you have now. I think a check valve is the way to go on this, and if down the line you have to replace the motor in the washer, well so be it, that part of the price of your set up, which you cannot help. If you need to you can clean out the line every now and then.
A second alternative would be to make a sump hole in your basement, have the machine drain into the sump and have a sump pump to pump the water out to wherever you want it to go. This will take the strain off of the washer, but you will still need a check valve, and eventually the lint and stuff in the washer discharge water will clog the sump pump and it will have to be replaced, but they are cheaper than a washer motor.
Good luck. This all started a year or so ago when I noticed that the washer was pumping it up the 7 feet and then about 15' down to the end of the house through 1" pipe from there it drops down 18" to where it use to go into a septic tank. The tank was done away with because of the new public sewer system. So then it went up the 18" through a 1 1/2 pipe and outside where it discharged onto the ground next to the foundation. After noticing water dumping onto the ground one day I added the 1 1/2 pipe on the outside of the house to run back 15' to the sewer line. That's about 40 feet of up, over, down, up, and over. Once it pumps it up the 7 feet it's only 3' to the outside sewer pipe. That would only be 10 feet total if I drill a hole through the sill plate and connect to the sewer pipe. It seems it would be much easier on the pump that way and that it would empty the line before the spin cycle ends because of the much, much shorter distance. If I were to try this at what point should I go from a 1" pipe to a 1 1/2" pipe? Come to think of it I can see the water coming back from the 15' horizontal pipe through the clear 90 degree elbow. I think the water is coming back into the tub because of the 15' additional feet of pipe I added and the water can not make it all the way to the sewer pipe before the spin cycle ends. That and the fact that I'm working the heck out of an old pump and it may be ready to fail. I'll probably have to replace the point at some point, but I'd rather make it a lot easier on the new pump.
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Rank: Advanced Member
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You need to know that even on a conventional hookup the machine does not drain all of the water out of the tub. In your situation no matter what you do you are not going to be able to completely drain the tub, so what you need to do is to get the water into the sewer line as quickly as possible and prevent any water from backing up. I strongly urge that whatever you do you make absolutely certain that you are operating in the current code.
That being said, your idea of going through the sill plate directly into the sewer line sounds like the way to go. In this case you absolutely need the check valve. As far as diameters, if the 1" line is sufficient and if it is in code, I think you can leave it all the way to the sewer line.
The best advice I can give you is to go down to the local plumbing inspectors office and run all of this by them. They will set you right and you can sleep easy at night.
The motto here is "do it once and do it right"
Good luck, hope it all works out for you.
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Rank: Member
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Originally Posted by: sidfink43 You need to know that even on a conventional hookup the machine does not drain all of the water out of the tub. In your situation no matter what you do you are not going to be able to completely drain the tub, so what you need to do is to get the water into the sewer line as quickly as possible and prevent any water from backing up. I strongly urge that whatever you do you make absolutely certain that you are operating in the current code.
That being said, your idea of going through the sill plate directly into the sewer line sounds like the way to go. In this case you absolutely need the check valve. As far as diameters, if the 1" line is sufficient and if it is in code, I think you can leave it all the way to the sewer line.
The best advice I can give you is to go down to the local plumbing inspectors office and run all of this by them. They will set you right and you can sleep easy at night.
The motto here is "do it once and do it right"
Good luck, hope it all works out for you. Thanks for the help.
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 9/29/2009(UTC)
Posts: 7
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Originally Posted by: sidfink43 You need to know that even on a conventional hookup the machine does not drain all of the water out of the tub. In your situation no matter what you do you are not going to be able to completely drain the tub, so what you need to do is to get the water into the sewer line as quickly as possible and prevent any water from backing up. I strongly urge that whatever you do you make absolutely certain that you are operating in the current code.
That being said, your idea of going through the sill plate directly into the sewer line sounds like the way to go. In this case you absolutely need the check valve. As far as diameters, if the 1" line is sufficient and if it is in code, I think you can leave it all the way to the sewer line.
The best advice I can give you is to go down to the local plumbing inspectors office and run all of this by them. They will set you right and you can sleep easy at night.
The motto here is "do it once and do it right"
Good luck, hope it all works out for you. Thanks for the help.
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 9/29/2009(UTC)
Posts: 7
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The 4" drain that the washe,r upstairs tub and bathroon sink drain into going out to the sewer was clogged with black colored lint and hair. After power rotor rooting everything is ok.
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 3/29/2009(UTC)
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Great, glad you got it fixed and thanks for updating us. Good luck with your drain system in the future.
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