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Fairbanks and Ryder, thanks for the input. As bearers of bad tidings, I hope you both appreciate my not "killing

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Old 01-05-2013, 04:11 AM
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Fairbanks and Ryder, thanks for the input. As bearers of bad tidings, I hope you both appreciate my not "killing the messengers". I was really hoping to impress the wifey with this repair, but I understand sometimes it just can't happen. Looks like I'll be shopping for another machine. I wonder if it's worth calling in a pro to confirm what I'm getting here, MS. Wifey may not want me to just go by what I find online, even tho she knows I do my share of advising others on some topics!

Sidfink, do you also think I'm doomed to replacing the machine instead of a couple of parts? You seem to have a good handle on things around here too.

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Old 01-05-2013, 06:48 AM
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I am not suggesting buying a new machine. That's a crapshoot, literally, as they are all a piece of crap. I personally spent $450 on my 10 year old GE top loader this year to keep it going rather than buying new. I am totally amazed at the way the new Whirlpool VMW design washers are built! What a piece of junk! This replaces their 30+ year old proven direct drive design. We are seeing more and more of them and boy do they have problems. While yours is not a Whirlpool, it is one of the newer GE models and fits into that piece of crap category as far as I'm concerned.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9JheWAZO9kw

If you have a multimeter, you can check for 120vac at the motor. If you have it and the LED is not working, then it's bad. They are not repairable and the inverter board is not replaceable. You have to replace the whole motor/inverter.

If you buy the motor from appliancepartspros, and it doesn't work, you can return it.

Eric

Last edited by fairbank56 : 01-05-2013 at 06:59 AM.
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Old 01-06-2013, 02:33 PM
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Fairbanks,
I have a multitester, and used it to detect that I have about 98 ohms at the "sifter coil"????? according to one of the repair tutorials , that seems to indicate a bad motor, but I don't know just where to put the probes to check for the 120vac on the motor as you suggested. Where do I tap into the motor to do so, and I guess that's done with with power to the machine, or no?

I really DO appreciate the help, btw, thanks.
Shaun
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Old 01-06-2013, 05:55 PM
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Actually, your better off not trying this on a live circuit. Your washer has the newer type motor that has a drip shield that comes down in front of the inverter board preventing you from accessing the test points. In this case, you would need to use needle tip test leads or insulation piercing test clips to make the measurement. The best way for you would be to just check continuity between the AC power plug and the connector on the inverter. Unplug the washer and unplug the leftmost connector on the inverter board. You should have continuity between the neutral blade (wide) of the washer power plug and the wht/red wire of the plug and continuity between the hot blade (narrow) of the plug and the two wires to the right of the wht/red wire. On some washers, these are red/blk and orange, some have blk and gray. Regardless, you should have continuity on those two rightmost wires with the lid closed. If continuity is good, then you know your getting power to the inverter. The 98 ohms on the shifter means the shifter coil is good. BTW, there should be a wiring diagram located somewhere behind the control panel of your washer.

Eric
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Old 01-07-2013, 04:32 AM
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Eric,
I will try it as you describe, thanks.
Yes, there's a page of them, it was tucked into a slot behind the control panel. Doesn't say much about the motor, it's more the upper panel and knobs etc.

I'll try to open the machine up again today, and let you know what I find.
Shaun
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Old 01-07-2013, 02:17 PM
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Eric,
Well, I have continuity between the plug blades and the connector as you described, and I found that the all red wire is the one for the lid switch, which is also working as it seems it ought to. Does this mean that the motor and sifter coil and inverter are good, and the lid switch is also good? Does that mean it has to be the top panel, the one with the knobs/control panel? Or is there yet another area that could still be at fault?

I almost feel like I might be on the right track here!
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Old 01-07-2013, 02:17 PM
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Eric,
Well, I have continuity between the plug blades and the connector as you described, and I found that the all red wire is the one for the lid switch, which is also working as it seems it ought to. Does this mean that the motor and sifter coil and inverter are good, and the lid switch is also good? Does that mean it has to be the top panel, the one with the knobs/control panel? Or is there yet another area that could still be at fault?

I almost feel like I might be on the right track here!
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Old 01-07-2013, 05:40 PM
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It means the motor/inverter is bad. You have power to the inverter but the LED is not flashing as it should be.

Eric
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Old 01-08-2013, 06:26 AM
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Eric,
Dangit, I was hoping it would be one of the less expensive parts I needed! Oh, well,,,,,,,am I safe in guessing the motor will be all it needs? No need to get the control panel?
Again, thanks for helping to walk me thru this.
Shaun
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Old 01-08-2013, 07:45 AM
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I can't say whether your control unit is ok or not. Since it does fill and drain, and we know the motor/inverter is likely bad, the control unit may be ok. The mini-manual should explain how to put it into diagnostic mode where you can test for the proper voltages to the motor/inverter. (rightmost connector on inverter).

This machine is only a year or so old. Were you happy with it's performance before the power surge? Apparently, many others think this thing is a piece of junk as are most of the new machines made in recent years. If you were happy with it, then I would just replace the motor/inverter and see what happens.

Eric
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