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Model Number: maytag performa pav2200aww Brand: Maytag Age: 5 - 10 years
I have a maytag performa pav2200aww that vibrates and walkson the spin cycle. So far I have replace the 6 suspension springs, snubber ring,re-leveled, and placed on vibration damping feet. Still vibrates and walks. Any help appreciated. Thank you. Ads By Google Related Models |
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Wow, you have done all the right things. Operate it with the front panel off and see if you can spot the problem, like a broken, hair line crack in the suspension structure or something like that.
Good luck.
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Hello, So I checked for any cracks and did not see any. Is it possible I installedthe snubber ring incorrectly? The sequence I performed: 1. Removed tube assembly from frame disconnecting the drive belt, hoses, and6 springs. 2. removed the 6 screws on plate that holds the snubber ring in place (didnot remove the pulley assembly). 3. removed the old snubber ring, cleaned plate and where the snubber ringsits, put the new snubber ring in and screwed down the 6 screws with the plate. 4. put corn starch on the base plate (liberally). 5. put the tube assembly back in, connecting all hoses and springs. Anything I missed or did incorrectly? I’m about to tear apart the entire transmissionat this point as a last resort before I buy another washer. Thanks for the help! |
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Hello again... so after I did the above repairs Ire-installed the machine back into the house and saw the same issues withvibration/walking of the washer. There is a washer/dryer closet on the firstfloor of a raised foundation (out in the San Francisco area of CA). Today, Imove the machine out to the garage, which as a concrete floor. The walk andvibrations are gone. So, this means that my floor (note I just moved to thishouse with my old washer) is not strong enough. So, any recommendations on strengthenthe floor. Note, the vibration isolation feet that I bought at the localhardware store did not do the job. Thank again… |
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These machines are really made to be on a concrete floor or its equivalent, but most of the times a regular floor is good enough. I can only advise you to seek out a skilled carpenter or similar person.
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If you have access to the floor joists it would be relatively easy to scab onto the existing floor joists for strength or to add more floor joists. Unless the floor itself is too thin or too weak the floor joists can be a problem. I have an old house with the same issue. The floor joists there are too far apart and only 2x6 when they should be at least 2 x 8 on 16" centers. I prefer the joists under a room with heavy appliances to be 2 x 10 if the length of the joists are 12 ft to 16 ft... The sub floor needs to be in good shape/strong. Generally a sub floor is either 5/8 or 3/4 plywood or OSB. I can usually tell a huge difference between the two as a 3/4" floor normally is very solid if supported by the proper floor joists.... a good site for info and this discussion is johnbridge.com in the forums there.
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