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how do i replace bearing in a ge washer that is making a noise when it goes in spin Related

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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 09-27-2009, 11:01 AM
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Default replacing bearing in ge washer
Model Number: wbxr1060t32ww   Brand: GE   Age: 5 - 10 years   

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how do i replace bearing in a ge washer that is making a noise when it goes in spin


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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 09-28-2009, 08:27 AM
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The bearing inside the transmission is probably the one that is noisy. This bearing cannot be changed. You will have to replace the entire transmission this page will help with that GE Washer Disassembly Guide
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Old 10-25-2014, 07:00 PM
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I know there are probably a lot of different GE washers out there, but mine (a GE Profile top load washer from about 2001) was roaring like a jet engine and it was the lower bearing. The tub seal had begun leaking, and it caused the bearing failure.

This bearing CAN be replaced by someone with significant DIY skills for under $50 (probably a lot less). The lower bearning is not inside the transmission, but it did require transmission removal in order to replace it.

The bearing is a special one with metric OD and thickness, but SAE ID of EXACTLY 1", hence the part number 6205-2RS-1. The -1 at the end means excatly 1". The more typical 6205-2RS is 25mm, but 1 inch is 25.4 mm, meaning the shaft of the transmission is .4 mm too large for the metric ID bearing. Be sure to order the correct bearing. Also order a tub seal (likely, the root of the problem in the first place) and the spanner wrench for GE washers in order to remove the LEFT-HAND thread tub nut.

I made the entire repair in about 5 hours total. A service pro could probably do it in half the time, but I did it for under $30. You will also need to search the web to learn how to remove the agitator and the brake cam (neither were obvious to me, but there are excellent internet videos and photos of everything, and it wasn't difficult).

I know this is an old post I am replying to, and I'm sure that the writer intends well, but someone who encounters this information first may give up too easily, when the repair is definitely do-able by a capable DIY'er.
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Old 10-27-2014, 07:47 AM
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Maybe is shouldn’t have said it can’t be replaced after all someone put the bearing in to began with but the reason I said this is because GE has always regarded this transmission as a “non serviceable part” meaning they don’t sell parts for it and the tell us not to try to fix it. Therefore from the top of the transmission shaft to the bottom of the brake its considered internal parts (hence why I said inside the transmission).

With that being said they want us to buy the transmission or a new washer so they can make money. They don’t want us to just buy a $5 bearing they cant make money like that.

From a DIY perspective what have you got to loose, replace the bearing if it doesn’t work all you have done is wasted an evening.

I have never tried this repair can you tell us what all you had to do once the transmission was out to change out this bearing?
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Old 10-27-2014, 01:01 PM
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I've done this job and created a web page showing the details.

http://home.comcast.net/~fairbank56/...nsmission.html

I get the bearings from bearingsdirect.com for $10

6205-2rs-1 special size ball bearing 1 inch x 52 x 15 mm

Eric
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Old 10-27-2014, 02:17 PM
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Thank you, very helpful

I have had the brake bearings off many times when they get stuck but I have never been further than that. What do you use to compress the springs when you put it back together? Three c-clamps look like they would work well or do you have a better way.
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Old 10-27-2014, 04:09 PM
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After you slide the retaining ring down, place a 1" length of schedule 40 pvc pipe over shaft and against the retaining ring. Press down on pipe to compress springs and retaining ring will snap into shaft groove.

Eric
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Old 10-28-2014, 07:48 AM
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sounds good maybe I will give this a try.
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Old 10-30-2014, 06:28 PM
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It was, in fact, fairbank56's excellent photo essay of the dissassembly process for the brake and support that supplied most of the missing pieces of the puzzle. Removing the bearing from the support itself was the process I had to invent on my own. I was working on a wooden workbench, so I screwed the support to the top of the bench with some wood screws. Doing this left both hands free to use a hammer and a center punch on the bearing race. Once I had created a gap between the bearing and the support, I was able to use a flathead screwdriver for a little more "persuasion."

NOTE: When re-installing the bearing into the support, be sure to use "persuasion" on the outer bearing race only. To apply impact or pressure on the inner race could damage the seal or the bearing.

By the way, to compress the brake springs I used three wide jaw locking pliers that I ordinarily use for clamping patch panels in place for welding when I have to replace sections of body panels on a car or truck I am restoring. I realize not everyone would have these, but they were exactly what I needed. I didn't even think of C-clamps, but that would have been just as good.

Last edited by hdot : 10-30-2014 at 06:33 PM. Reason: Added reply
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Old 12-06-2014, 11:44 AM
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I did this job a couple of times since you this was posted and it worked out well so I decided to make a page about this. The page included information about where to look for and repair the leak that caused this problem to start with and information on replacing the bearing on transmission models and shaft and tube models take a look

Ge washer is Leaking and Noisy
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