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Maytag Neptune Washer - No Spin Cycle
Model Number: MAH4000AWW Brand: Maytag Age: More than 10 years
Ok, I just received this free washer from my friend because he couldn't get the spin to work, and I have had some issues. Basically, instead of beginning the spin cycle, the machine oscillates back and forth (as in the 'wash' cycle) for several minutes before stopping movement altogether and just humming (the humming is coming from the pump). Here's what I've done/checked so far:
1. Wax motor didn't work, R11 was blown. I replaced the wax motor, R11 and Q6 triac. Wax motor now works great and engages both limit switches.
2. I looked over the motor control board and noticed no problems (fuse was clean with continuity and there were no burn marks on the usual board places
3. I have checked a few of the main control board voltages
a. P5 (neutral) to P2, wire 4 (orange, out-of-balance) reads 25VDC
b. P5 (neutral) to P3, wire 7 (yellow, spin-enable) reads 25VDC
This makes me believe that the out-of-balance is fine and the spin-enable limit switch doesn't need replacing.
Now, here are a few other thoughts/concerns I've had:
1. This testing has all been done with a completely empty washer that is disconnected from the water supply. I took it apart and rigged something so I could trick it into thinking the door is closed so I can watch the door lock mechanism and the interior during these tests (like I said, door lock mechanism working fine). However, it still "sounds" like there is water in it, sloshing around while it spins. I'm not sure if this is counterweight water that is sealed. I considered that the pump was clogged but jiggled some of the tubes around the pump and felt no water inside. Is there internal water in the tub as a counterweight?
2. I saw on a forum to disconnect the P4 connection at the motor controller board (accessed from the front) to test if the motor controller is busted. However, I can't seem to find the P4 at the motor controller board. I know about the P4 at the main control board...I disconnected that and plugged in the washer. I engaged my "door close" and pushed on and it did its usual stalling, no 50rpm or anything. If that's the right test (could you re-describe it to me, as well?) then that may prove it's the motor controller. Otherwise let me know.
3. Probably doesn't matter, but the light bulb on the door (next to the lock mechanism) is missing. I will replace it if I get other things to work, and figure that's meaningless information but wanted to share it anyway.
Any suggestions for more things to check? Your help is greatly appreciated!
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