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My washer recently flooded due to low incoming water pressure. It sits in a tub with a 2" lip to

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Old 11-12-2012, 11:40 PM
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Default Spin cycle problem
Model Number: MAH6500AWW   Brand: Maytag   Age: 5 - 10 years   

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My washer recently flooded due to low incoming water pressure. It sits in a tub with a 2" lip to prevent water damage to flooring. Unfortunately, when the tub filled with water, it was high enough to fry the motor control board. I replaced the motor control board with an identical used part, and fixed the water pressure issue.

After extensive testing and at least 8 successful complete cycles, everything worked as it should. Then, a few days later, I noticed the LR fault code and now it won't complete the spin cycle. I can manually rotate the drum by hand with no resistance. The washer attempts to spin and tries to get up to speed, but then gives up, activates the drain pump, and attempts again over and over.

I've been reading that Maytag may have redesigned their motor and motor control board to solve similar issues. Is my existing motor compatible with the new motor control board I put in? The part numbers and physical descriptions were identical.

Did I get a bad motor control board? After installing it, it passed all the diagnostic tests and worked properly for a few days. Now when I run the motor speed diagnostic test (with the door locked), it won't do anything. Any suggestions are appreciated. I'm thinking I have another bad motor control board, but I don't want to throw more money at it if I'm missing something.


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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 11-13-2012, 07:12 PM
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There are two different motor control boards used as replacement for this model number depending on the serial number of the washer.

What is the part number of the motor control board you installed and what is the serial number of the washer?

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Old 11-13-2012, 10:36 PM
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Thanks for your reply Gene, I appreciate any insight!

The serial number for the washer is 20890410AT

The sticker on the motor control board reads:
Maytag 6 2726410
AKO 544330-07
060105 097 41

The sticker on my original motor control board reads:
Maytag 6 2726410
544 330
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Old 11-14-2012, 01:54 PM
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The correct part number for the motor control board is Part number: 22004046

Part number: 22004046


The numbers you posted are not a valid Maytag (Whirlpool) part numbers but if your control board looks identical with the part shown above then this is the correct part. Verify and post the result.

Mayag has not redesigned the motor but it could be damaged due to that flood or by damaged control board.

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Old 11-14-2012, 02:26 PM
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Yes, the pictured board looks identical to mine, though the only part numbers I can find on it are the ones I listed above. When the washer flooded, it didn't reach the motor level, although I agree it's possible the control board could have fried it. Are there any tests I can run to pinpoint one or the other? So far I've only done the diagnostic tests from the control panel, but I have a multimeter and can shoot wires... Thanks again Gene!
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Old 11-14-2012, 03:03 PM
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Unfortunately I don't have the tech sheet for this model. If you can post one, it my help me. What was the results for the diagnostic tests you ran?

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Old 11-14-2012, 03:05 PM
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Here's a closeup picture of my board showing the part numbers I listed.
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Old 11-14-2012, 03:09 PM
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Most likely those numbers are for manufacturers internal use only.

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Old 11-14-2012, 03:15 PM
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I can post the schematics and troubleshooting guide that tomorrow.

Initially the machine flooded and the water level saturated the original control board and electrically fried it. The flooded water did not reach the motor. After replacing the control board with a used part, (and fixing the unrelated flooding issue) I ran the washer through a series of self diagnostic checks. The motor passed all tests and spun at the correct rpm as it should. I reassembled everything and did several laundry cycles, and all seemed to work correctly. The next day while doing another cycle, I saw a LR code displayed, indicating a locked rotor. The drum spun fine by hand with normal resistance. I checked the belt and other obvious things, all seemed to be in order. I went back to the diagnostic tests, and now it won't complete a spin cycle. It attempts to spin, but once the rpm's start increasing, the motor slows down, activates the drain pump, then tries to spin again, and again, and again...

Performing the specific motor speed diagnostic test, (after activating the door lock as described in the troubleshooting guide)yields 0 results. Nothing happens except for the sound of a couple relays clicking. No error code or anything. Trying a normal spin cycle does the same ramp up and spin down cycle as described above. I'm going to tear into it again tonight and try to shoot wires and see what kind of output I'm getting from the motor control board.
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Old 11-14-2012, 09:03 PM
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OK, I'm pretty confident that the problem is another bad motor control board. I'm using the troubleshooting guide that I found inside the washer's machine control board panel. I'll try to scan it to .pdf and post it here tomorrow. Here are the tests I performed tonight and results that followed.
  1. Entered Service Mode and checked Diagnostic Codes
  2. Found code 06 which corresponds to locked rotor
  3. Performed Motor Control Board Output Test
  4. After removing JP4 and entering the Board Output Test, I actuated the door lock, and pressed Stain to start the Motor Control Output Test

With the back cover removed, I observed the motor trying to spin the drum. It would start to spin but stopped after moving the drum about 15 degrees. It continued to try to spin the drum every few seconds, but with the same results.

As posted above, I spun the drum manually and observed it moved freely in both directions without excessive resistance. I removed the belt and repeated the test with my finger on the motor shaft to feel it spin. As before, the motor shaft made several revolutions before stopping, then trying again every few seconds.

I confirmed 120 VAC was present at the motor control board connector. I also confirmed the motor phase windings were correct by measuring resistance on the JP4 connector. Pins 4-5 had 179 ohms, 1-2, 1-3, 2-3 all had 6.7 ohms.

Using the Quick Spin Test in Service Mode gave similar results. The motor has plenty of torque, I tested by trying to stop the pulley (it was moving slow). My guess is that the motor control board is not sending proper signals to the motor.
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