[flenn]

My 8 year old Kenmore Elite stopped agitating and spinning. With the motor out of the machine and the lid switch jumped, it still won't spin. I can get it to start if I spin it by hand, but it has no power (I can stop it with my hand) and it gets hot quickly.

Based on this, I'm pretty sure the problem is the motor although there is no short between the chassis and any of the motor wires. I found a diagnostic routine on the web and tested resistance between the motor wires and everything looked within range.

Is there a way to rule out the timer/control by looking at voltages on the wiring harness? If I know I have the proper voltages, it must be the motor. Alternatively, is there a way to bypass the timer and apply 120v directly to the motor (I could make a line cord)? I feel like I'm close but just need a little more info. Any help is appreciated.

[sidfink43]

If you plug in the motor with it out of the machine and the lid switch jumped, does the motor turn?

Does the motor turn freely when it is disconnected and out of the machine?

[flenn]

Just looked at my original post and noticed I was a little unclear. Yes the motor turns freely when disconnected and out of the machine.

With the motor out of the machine, wiring harness connected and the lid switch jumped, the motor won't spin on its own. If I then turn it by hand, I can actually get the motor to start. It doesn't run normally as it gets hot, smells and runs very weak (I can stop it with my hand).

It seems like the problem is the motor, but I'm also leery that it may not be getting the proper voltage from the timer.

[fairbank56]

Since you can get it started by hand but easily stop it by hand, I would say you have power to the start winding but not any of the run windings. Check for 120vac across the blue wire and white/black wire which is the high speed winding. The start winding should be across the red and yellow wires. If your not getting power to one of the run windings of the motor, the problem is likely the timer. If you do get power then it could be the centrifugal switch on the motor or the motor itself. This is based on the typical Whirlpool configuration. Check your wiring diagram to confirm color code. I see this is a 3-speed model with a separate speed switch so the problem might also be the speed switch.

Eric

[flenn]

I really appreciate the help. I don't have a wiring diagram for the unit so I'm only going on your instructions on which wires to test. I'm assuming I can make the voltage measurements directly on the harness with the motor disconnected. If not, let me know.

The blue and white/black wires do not have 120v. The yellow and red also don't have 120v. I noticed that the red wire in the harness goes to one of the lugs on the start capacitor, is this right?

[flenn]

Well, it's not the motor because I just received one from Sears and it does the same thing. So...not sure if I should pursue this or cut my losses. If I could tell for sure if it was the timer I would convince my wife to hang in there (her patience is waning). But the thought of buying a timer and still having a problem would set us back another few days and not sure if it's worth it. Thoughts?

[fairbank56]

The motor must be connected. Yes, the red wire goes to the capacitor. Since you've ruled out the motor and motor switch, you've narrowed it to the timer, speed select switch or wiring. There should be a wiring diagram in the washer somewhere. Usually behind the control panel.

Eric