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Rog47  
#1 Posted : Wednesday, August 15, 2012 4:00:52 PM(UTC)
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Rog47

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 8/15/2012(UTC)
Posts: 6

Model 110.27812692 (Gear Case partially disassembled)

Matt, your instructions to get this far have been invaluable, but now I feel like I am at a dead end.

8-31 Update - the noise was due to a badly deteriorated motor coupling spacer - the coupling pieces themselves were fine, but the rubber spacer/isolator was shot. When the machine was reassembled and placed back upright, oil was observed to be leaking from the seal around the input shaft.

When the transmission case was opened there was about 8-12 oz oil in the gear case and I have a have a number of photos, but not a clue how to proceed to access and replace the input shaft seal. I presume that the main gear needs to be removed and it appears to be held in place by a simple clip, but that clip does not come off as easily as the one above the clutch on the shaft.

What I would do if I were to encounter this type of noise and behavior again is to replace the motor coupler and ignore the oil leak until I heard the horrible noise of gears grinding themselve apart. That might have been tomorrow and it might have been months from now.

Roger

First photo shows the open gear case with the main gear and area where the input shaft seal should be.

The second shows the oil leak's trail from the input shaft seal (note the new motor coupling) to the drip point off the bottom of the gearcase housing


Update - the agitator and drive block have been removed - the video on how to remove the cabinet makes removing the clips look really easy but following those instructions would not remove these old model clips - what did work was pressing down the back of the clip and disconnecting it from the back rather than from the cabinet - bad news, we found large oil spot under the machine and according to the Sears Do-It-Yourself manual an oil leak means gearcase replacement. I can not even find the gear case as a part let alone a video on installation - the Do It Yourself manual looks really daunting, just like Drive Block replacement looks pretty daunting in that manual.

Clothes do not agitate properly and wrap around the agitator. There is very loud clacking noise like something is continually breaking. This noise sometimes goes away and normal agitation occurs if I stop the machine and carefully unwrap the clothes. I tried removing the agitator, but only could remove the upper agitator, the lower one would not budge. From reading the Sears Do-it-Yourself repair manual, I have bad feeling that the agitator shaft may need replacement. I watched your agitator replacement video yesterday and that brought me to your forum. Would a video of this machine in action help diagnose the problem?
Rog47 attached the following image(s):
Open Gear Case.jpg
Leak from Input Shaft.jpg
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Gene  
#2 Posted : Thursday, August 23, 2012 1:09:45 PM(UTC)
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Gene

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators
Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC)
Posts: 27,455

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Hi Rog,

According to the information you posted, the major issue with your washer is a bad gearcase (transmission) which has to be replaced in such situation.

If the top agitator is not oscillating properly then you need to order the agitator repair kit too. The lower part of the agitator does not have any additional screws. You have to pull it straight up to remove it.

Quote:
...I have bad feeling that the agitator shaft may need replacement...


The shaft is a part of the gearcase.

You probably have to replace the clutch at the same time because of oil leaked from the gearcase.

Inspect the motor coupling for any cracks or wear while you will disassemble the washer.

All parts are accompanied by the instructional videos.


- The gearcase (aka transmission) Part number: 3360629
Part number: 3360629



- The clutch assembly Part number: 285785
Part number: 285785



- The motor coupling Part number: 285753A
Part number: 285753A



- The agitator repair kit Part number: 285748
Part number: 285748



Gene.
Rog47  
#3 Posted : Friday, August 24, 2012 5:03:49 AM(UTC)
Quote
Rog47

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 8/15/2012(UTC)
Posts: 6

Thank you, Gene,

Your advice and the videos make this a doable repair and I really appreciate your reply. We have decided, though, that the cost of the parts exceeds the cost of buying a used washer since there are some other problems with this 15 year old one. Thanks, again.

Roger

Originally Posted by: Gene Go to Quoted Post
Hi Rog,

According to the information you posted, the major issue with your washer is a bad gearcase (transmission) which has to be replaced in such situation.

If the top agitator is not oscillating properly then you need to order the agitator repair kit too. The lower part of the agitator does not have any additional screws. You have to pull it straight up to remove it.



The shaft is a part of the gearcase.

You probably have to replace the clutch at the same time because of oil leaked from the gearcase.

Inspect the motor coupling for any cracks or wear while you will disassemble the washer.

All parts are accompanied by the instructional videos.


- The gearcase (aka transmission) Part number: 3360629
Part number: 3360629



- The clutch assembly Part number: 285785
Part number: 285785



- The motor coupling Part number: 285753A
Part number: 285753A



- The agitator repair kit Part number: 285748
Part number: 285748



Gene.
Matt / APP Team  
#4 Posted : Friday, August 24, 2012 11:19:59 AM(UTC)
Quote
Matt / APP Team

Rank: Administration

Groups: Administrators
Joined: 7/18/2007(UTC)
Posts: 80

The Sears book wont tell you how to fill the gear case with oil because they dont consider it a serviceable part. But it is the standard gear case used for many years. They do not sell an actual gasket for between the 2 halves they sell a liquid gasket material. Here is the breakdown for the standard direct drive gear case: Gearcase replacement parts for Whirlpool LST7233AN1 | AppliancePartsPros.com


You can view the gears and the seals. Not sure where its leaking so I included the upper seal and the one behind the coupler. The oil is a special one and you have to use it. Set the lower half of the gear case on a level surface and fill it to the lip of the housing. You might have some left over.

Part number: AP3072960
Part number: AP3072960


Part number: AP3073576
Part number: AP3073576


Part number: AP2908074
Part number: AP2908074


Part number: AP3043580
Part number: AP3043580


I know you said you might go buy a new one but I thought Id give you your options. Make sure that if you take anything out of the gear case that you remember where it went!

This refill process should work assuming you have no other damage to the gears from it being run with no oil in it.
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