Constant knocking on Rinse/Spin - Kenmore 90 top loader


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During the spin cycle, there's a steady knocking noise that's seems to be emmitted at 2 beats per second and

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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 05-01-2012, 06:57 AM
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Question Constant knocking on Rinse/Spin - Kenmore 90 top loader
Model Number: 110.20922990   Brand: Kenmore   Age: 5 - 10 years   

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During the spin cycle, there's a steady knocking noise that's seems to be emmitted at 2 beats per second and begins when the tub starts spinning. The beat doesn't change and continues throughout the spin cycle, regardless of the tub rotation speed. It sounds like it's coming from the bottom of the tub.
I thought it maybe the drive block but after removal, cleaning, & inspection, I'm sure that's not the cause. I removed the cabinet and tried to isolate where the noise is coming from, thinking it's within the clutch but I'm pretty sure that's not it because it's a steady knock even when the clutch begins it's rotation and throughout acceleration to obtain it's constant speed. I replaced the coupling last year and inspected it, but didn't disassemble. Coupling looks intact at each dog as I rotated it. I checked for obvious loose or missing components but everything looks fine. The washer works ok but with the noise, I'm sure it's going to get worse. Any ideas?

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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 05-02-2012, 05:14 PM
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sidfink43 is a jewel in the rough

Diagnosing noises like this is almost impossible without being there.

I suggest you operate it with the cabinet off by by-passing the lid switch. You may be able to see/hear where the problem is. I would also examine the clutch/brakes, you may have a sticky brake issue.
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Old 05-03-2012, 07:08 AM
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Default knocking noise on rinse/spin -kenmore 90 top loader

I practically disassembled the entire unit. I checked the coupling:looks good, checked the clutch: looked ok, checked the drive/brake: was a bit tight but looked ok I guess, rotated transmission: wasn't sure but became a little suspicious. Did some google searches and learned more. Re-assembled and tried again. When on entering drain mode to spin, the tub started draining ok (motor and pump works), but tub/basket didn't rotate. It appeared to be stuck. Actually, it tried to rotate, but abruptly stops, as though the brake is engaged.
I then learned more about the brake and someone suggested to apply lubricant (Sil-Glyde) to the drum. I took it apart, applied Sil-Glyde, re-assembled with a new clutch (because I had already purchased one thinking maybe it was the clutch) and tried again. Same problem. Again back to the google search and started thinking more and more of the transmission. To satisfy my stubborn curiosity, I removed the transmission and separated the case (a little mess on the bench). I discoved that the teeth on the large gear, about 4" dia, were worn away. I believe this gear is a softer material like nylon. Also, the part that travels up and down vertically, engaging the clutch when installed wasn't spring loaded (I wondered what causes this part to engage & disengage). Then I looked more into transmission problems on Kenmore and learned from another post that Whirpool (manufacturer) offers parts to the transmission (pn-3360630) and a kit (388253) for about $15.
I'm looking more into trying to replace the worn gear because it looks pretty simple and easily accessable and with a little more gear oil (about 1 oz lost), I should be back in business. But, if I'm faced with buying a transmission at $180, I'll probably consider replacing the washer.
Any thoughts, comments, opinions?
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Old 05-03-2012, 01:46 PM
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sidfink43 is a jewel in the rough

I would go ahead and try the kit, but if that does not fix things I think a new basic machine which you can get for about $325 to $350.00 in our area is a better bet than buying a new transmission.

Good luck.
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Old 05-03-2012, 08:36 PM
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Default Kenmore 90 headache has been resolved without aspirin

Well, this morning I really got into the mess by studying the transmission's parts breakdown and learning more about its operation and function. I then took it apart and inspected the neutral drive settings and how the $15 kit would benefit. I also looked into the cost of the spin gear (the large nylon I mentioned earlier). Apparently the spin gear is packaged with the pinion and sells for about $75 in addition to the kit. Then I thought, what if it still doesn't correct the problem? Since my confidence wasn't entirely 100%, I got a price on a transmission....$185. So that plus a clutch that I had already installed would set me back about $220. And then what's next? I paid $449 for the machine in Feb 2001. I decided to get another machine and start fresh. I'm favoring a Staber top loading, horizontal axis High Efficiency machine. I think it's well designed (tub supported on both sides), simple, practical, very well made and made in the USA.
I personally know somebody who has one and he introduced me to it when he bought his last year. No problems except for his own fault. Somehow a piece of cloth got caught in the pump causing a shutdown. It took him 15 minutes to isolate the problem (thanks to technical support), remove the obstruction, replace the fuse and that was that. Damn good design if you ask me.
Anyone know about these models or hear anything about them?
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