Rank: Member
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Joined: 3/18/2012(UTC) Posts: 5
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Washer won't fill hot or cold on any combination of switch settings. Water source, hoses, and screens are fine. Lid switch ohms out, and problem still exists when jumpered. Runs fine when filled with external hose. Selenoids actuate and water flows with WTS set to warm with external AC 120 applied. Water level switch ohms 0 between pink and dark violet and infinity between dark violet and tan and is working properly. Here's the kicker, after verifying solenoids actuated and water flowed with external AC 120 applied, I checked the WTS with timer actuated, warm setting, and connectors removed from solenoids, each connector reads AC 120. How can I get them to actuate with external power (test lead connected to wall) but they won't actuate with AC 120 applied from WTS? Doesn't make sense...
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 3/29/2009(UTC) Posts: 11,699
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I agree, it does not make sense, so I can only assume that the wires are shorting out once they are connected or that they fail under a load.
Put the terminals on and leave some space to check it once they are connected.
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 3/18/2012(UTC) Posts: 5
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Originally Posted by: sidfink43 I agree, it does not make sense, so I can only assume that the wires are shorting out once they are connected or that they fail under a load.
Put the terminals on and leave some space to check it once they are connected. ================================================= When large flat white/red connectors are attached to solenoids, AC measures 2.7 V each...
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 3/29/2009(UTC) Posts: 11,699
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I think that confirms what I said earlier. The switch or the wiring is likely the problem.
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 3/18/2012(UTC) Posts: 5
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Originally Posted by: sidfink43 I think that confirms what I said earlier. The switch or the wiring is likely the problem. ======================================= I checked each Water Inlet Valve wire to ground, and to each other, no shorts. I left everything plugged in for a while and felt all the switches. They are all cool with exception to the WTS. Any warmer and I wouldn't want to touch it. I unplugged the selonoid wires, and the WTS remained hot. Pulled power, cooled off. I pulled the WTS plug and checked all wires to ground and each other. The only connection was between the pink and orange/white, 60 k ohm. Sure enough those two wires go to the temp sensor on the bottom of the Water Inlet Valve Assembly. Pull those wires and ohmed the temp sensor, 60 k ohms. So, all the wiring passed visual and ohms checks. I think I have a defective WTS! What say ye?
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 3/29/2009(UTC) Posts: 11,699
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I agree, if you buy from this site and the part does not fix the problem you can return it.
Good luck, let us know how things turn out.
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 3/18/2012(UTC) Posts: 5
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Originally Posted by: sidfink43 I agree, if you buy from this site and the part does not fix the problem you can return it.
Good luck, let us know how things turn out. +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Thanks for your assistance. WTS is on order. Bill
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 3/18/2012(UTC) Posts: 5
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Originally Posted by: WileyR +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Thanks for your assistance. WTS is on order. Bill +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Sid, Just received WTS, installed, and works great! Thanks for your help!!!:D :D :D
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