[JSS]

Washer was stopping during wash cycle and sometimes at 1st rinse and always before final spin. I could restart sometimes, sometimes I had to wait 30 minutes, and maybe a could get a complete wash.

Since everthing seemed to work at some point during the wash operation, I replaced the control board. Ran 1 load. Did fine up to spin cycle - drained only and timer advanced to off. No attempt to spin. Rechecked out of balance and door switches from control board input - OK.

When washer stopped, the door locked light and line relay door light both stayed on for 30 seconds or so and then the door locked light went out followed immediately by the door light.

NEVER DID THIS BEFORE. For15 years, when washer stopped, the line relay door light went out and 30 seconds later the door locked light went out.

And, the line relay apparently does not drop out although the door lights go out. If I move the time to any running position, the washer starts without pushing the start button.

NEVER DID THAT BEFORE, EITHER.

Is this a software change on the control board? And, not spinning now is related to change of control board?

I read where the wax motor should be changed when control board is changed. I will do that and report back. Although, wax motor and door lock checks out OK.

Running out of options.

[JSS]

What? Replaced control board, wax motor (didn't need it), checked out of balance switches, checked door lock switch and now trouble shooting guide says "replace control board."

See original post. Lights still work incorrectly (compared to original operation), line relay picks up in running position without pushing start button and machine will not start to spin - just moves to off.

What the? Anybody ever installed a new board that did not work right?

[JSS]

I had checked what I considered related wiring and switch contacts. I only replaced the timer and checked the motor control since I was running out of ideas. It troubled me to replace the timer since that violated a basic trouble shooting technique: “what changed?”
Well, the main control board was changed and I now I had new “issues.” So, the new issues must be the “new” control board. It pained me, but I ordered another control board.
Voila! Eureka! As soon I as took the new board out of the box I was optimistic. I put all 3 control boards on the table and compared them side-by-side.
The original board and the 1st ordered board had the same light film of dust. The 2nd ordered board was obviously clean, shiny and spanking brand new. Then I noticed that the 1st board I ordered had red pen marks next to several component (resistors, control transformer, etc.). I am guessing here, but these marks appear to be repair notations or indications of parts changed or faulty.
I don’t know if it there was a mix-up and I got a board that had been returned for core refund or if I got a poorly repaired used board. But, it was not a new board.
I installed the NEW board and all is well.
Lessons: Scrutinize your “new” parts closely. Remember the basic trouble shooting question – what changed?