[Merlis]

My 2 year old front load washer stopped doing the high speed spin a couple of days ago. It goes through all the motions, but when it comes to the final spin/drain cycle, it will only drain.

I made sure all doors were closed, tried to wash several different loads to make sure that it wasn't an unbalanced load or too light/heavy. Still no luck.

I found the tech data sheet inside the machine, followed the instructions, and brought up the error code E43 (control board problem/replace board). I replaced the board and it still won't spin. New board still shows E43.

I next ran through the diagnostic test. All the functions worked including the high speed spin and door lock test. I also checked the drain boot and it wasn't clogged.

Why does the high speed spin work in the diagnostic mode, but won't work on any wash cycles? What's wrong with this thing? I don't want to manually make it spin every wash load. Please help, getting frustrated!

[Gene]

Which control board did you replace?

Gene.

[Merlis]

I replaced the main control board (Part # 134484018 - control board, printed circuit, with housing). I now see that there is another part called the motor control board sa well. But if the motor control board is faulty, why does the machine do a high speed spin in the diagnostic mode? Wouldn't the high speed spin not work if this part was defective?

[richappy]

On your service sheet there is a chain diagram for no spin problems. It includes the door switch, the soap dispenser reed switch and the timer. Probably a bad door switch. There is an easy test for this.
Remove front panel and locate the test connector near the door switch. Stick your voltmeter leads in this, should not be any voltage during spin. Voltage=bad door switch.
If no connector, you will need to pull the door switch to check. I usually remove the right side of the boot to facilitate door switch removal. Get some super glue to re-attach boot.

[Merlis]

I don't think I have the information on my spec sheet that you mentioned. The new control board I installed came with a note saying "Testing has shown the reed switch is not needed on front load washers. If the washer has a reed switch, disconnect it from the old board and discard." The new control board doesn't even have the terminals to connect the reed switch. I don't think that's the problem.

I can't find any sort of test connector behind the front panel, so I removed the switch. I showed an electrician the schematic for the washer, and he told me to test the gray and red wire terminals of the door switch for 1325 ohms of resistance. I think I found the one he meant, it was a red with black stripe wire. It tested at 1389 (okay I think?). I also tested the gray and black wires for voltage and found 120 volts with the machine in standby, and 0 volts during spin cycle. Is this right? I'm not sure if I'm testing the right terminals or not. Any help with exactly which wires to test would be very appreciated.

The door switch has three different connectors going to it. One has two wires, pink and red with black stripe. I believe this connects to the wax something. The next connector has four, an orange wire and three red with black stripe wires. The last connector has two, a black and a gray wire. Too many red with black, I am very confused.

I can hear the door lock when I go through the diagnostic tests and make the washer spin that way, but I don't know if that means anything or not. Any help with which wires/terminals to test would be great.

[richappy]

I have little experience on this washer,maybe someone else can help. The only advice I can give is check all the connectors, sometimes pins come loose.Everything else you have already replaced or tested ok.

[richappy]

You can call this parts site and order the repair manual, $19 or just order the door switch and speed control board. If either one fixes your problem, you can send the other one back, they have a good return policy.