Rank: Member
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Joined: 6/29/2009(UTC) Posts: 6
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Leaking on fill at inlet line sleeve under top deck, feed to basket.
P/N 215447
How do you open cabinet to access?
Thanks
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 8/16/2007(UTC) Posts: 3,273
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You should see two screws on the front panel near the bottom. Remove them and the panel will rock outward and up away from the cabinet. The top is secured with a 3/8 inch hex head screw at both corners just inside the cabinet. Disconnect the bleach fill hose, if there is one, and the top will then be free to tip up to give you the access you need.
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 6/29/2009(UTC) Posts: 6
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Thanks, I finally found the 2 screws on front bottom after laying machine on it's side v. front. Then removed front panel to raise lid.
Leak's coming from P/N 215447 sleeve during fill or rinse cycle. This appears to be a positive air-break device between potable water supply and basket. It's a small plastic 'box' with an insert flow-through. Almost looks like a mini-filter.
Is it common for these to leak or overflow with age? My guess is it's partially made-up with sediment after years of use and simply needs replaced to avoid overflowing.
If that sounds right please confirm or offer any other insight.
Thank-you.
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 8/16/2007(UTC) Posts: 3,273
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There are two parts that are replaced to fix this leak: they are called the water injector, and the nozzle. Some techs just replace the whole thing with a solid hose and have no problems. A true Maytag tech will replace the appropriate parts...your choice.
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 6/29/2009(UTC) Posts: 6
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Replaced injector + nozzle with pvc union. Leak fixed. Thanks.
Bought this washer 2.25.89. 20Y, 4M old, don't know how long it'll last before I must replace it, but it's been a GREAT machine.
I'll buy Maytag again
Thanks again, this forum is great
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 8/16/2007(UTC) Posts: 3,273
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Glad you were able to fix it. This machine is in the Dependable Care class of machine. This is the line that earned Maytag their "lonely Maytag man" reputation. The machines are no longer in production, but as long as yours remains structurally sound, it is worth keeping it going. You can still get parts for it...just make sure , when it comes to the seals and bearings, you stick to the OEM parts.
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 6/29/2009(UTC) Posts: 6
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Right. I thought of keeping it since the fabrication looked fairly bulletproof, your feedback reinforces that - pretty maintainable, accessible once open. Noticed pump belt had alot of play, but still drains fine, so am alert to it. How much play should pump belt have (I had ~1") + what is recommended belt change frequency? Both belts were OK condition. I considered putting belt dressing on them but didn't - but can.
OEM brgs + seals. Ck. Machine chirps a little in spin. Ran a load after repair, made mental note about possible bearing....might incur bearing repair within year. Will better note sound + point in cycle.
Machine's heavy, they don't make 'em like they used to. I plan to keep it. Re-ck'd level + fine tuned. It was level before.
If I get into brgs + seals, or whatever, I can tackle it with this site.
Don't want to buy new if I don't have to. But when I have to I will, the Mrs. and kids have to have the equipment.
Thank-you
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 8/16/2007(UTC) Posts: 3,273
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Maytag belts are designed for a loose fit: Just tight enough that you need to slide the motor pulley inward to remove them. They did this to eliminate the need for a clutch.
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