[clancaster]

Purchased new 12/1998. Washer stopped spinning. Based on other users' posts & your replies, replaced drive belt & agitator coupling (orig. belt seemed ok but changed anyway; orig. agitator coupler was stripped of tabs (washer still agitated--go figure!); 1 dampening strap broken but replaced all 4) -- these all work fine now. Everything in control panel plus lid switch seem fine (but untested yet). Washer fills/drains/agitates correctly; no obvious water/oil leaks around inner/outer pumps/tubes/hoses/motor/transmission or elsewhere inside/outside cabinet. Can manually move drive belt freely to the left--clutch & tranny pulley also freely move left. However, can only move belt, clutch & tranny pulley to the right about 1/4 turn before all stop--feels/sounds like something is blocking movement. When right-hand movement stops, hear "solid" noise like something is blocking pathway (i.e., I don't hear anything that sounds loose/rattling). No unusual sounds when machine is running either. I also noted the clutch felt very hot after turning off washer from testng new belt & agitator coupler. Any ideas for the next step? Should I be looking further into the tub/basket/related assemblies? At first glance, hub nut & hub inner tub base look good(no corrosion/no worn edges on nut/can read lettering on nut/all look like clean aluminum). "Eyeballed" the tub/basket with flashlight and didn't see anything stuck between either but didn't disassemble yet. Machine has never been or needed servicing until now; machine has probably never been used to its full capability (maybe 4 small-medium loads monthly of lightly soiled items). Thanks in advance for your assistance.

[sidfink43]

Operate it with the front panel off. If the motor is turning when the cycle is in spin but the pulley won' t turn then it is probably the transmission or the brakes which are inside the transmission casing.

[clancaster]

Sidlink--thanks for reply; sorry for delay/holiday plans. Back to washer. Washer works perfectly on the Cottons & Regulars cycle; however, it still does not spin in Permanent Press or Delicates cycles (but agitates, fills, drains, and otherwise works in these cycles). I noticed during the Cottons & Regulars cycle that there is no longer a buring smell, but there is slight water leaking at base of tub where tranny connects (leaks only during spinning). New belt, agitator coupling & dampening straps looking good (recv'd lightening-fast from your shop, thx)...any ideas on what to check next?

[sidfink43]

If it is working for one cycle this means that there are no mechanical problems, so the likely suspect is the control unit. Try changing it out and see if that fixes things.

[clancaster]

ok -- what is the GE or Appliance Parts Pro part number for the control unit for GE Washer Model WJSR2080T8AA? Thanks.

[sidfink43]

Here is the part

Part number: AP2045965

If you buy from this site and the part does not fix things you can return it, see the returns policy for details and conditions.

Good luck, hope this fixes it.

[clancaster]

SidFink43 -- You Rock! Pulled the control unit; some tabs broken & it's fried (read this forum's "sticky note" on washers/testing continuity--bought my very own VOM today--beware all switches, here I come! Will order parts from your company...see, woman can fix, too...

[clancaster]

Merry Christmas, SidLink -- I'm back. Replaced the control unit (bought from this site) -- got 1 load done perfectly, but machine stopped spinning again this morning. I removed the front cover during a test load and see the spinner basket moves a bit but it stops after a few seconds. I'm sure the new control unit is installed correctly. Next step?

[sidfink43]

Darn, hate it when that happens, you think you got it fixed and then it goes bad again.

If the motor continues to operate but the basket stops spinning then the problem is in the transmission/brakes.

If the motor has stopped, then given that you have a new control unit the problem is either with the motor or the wiring. Take a look at the control unit and make sure it did not burn out also, which could happen if there is a wiring issue.

[clancaster]

Hey Sidlink -- running another test load now. Filling/agitating fine. Motor is running--too soon in cycle to spin...while waiting, is there anything in the tub assembly that could interfere with the spin cycle? You mentioned wiring, which occurred to me, too. What wiring part can I research on your site that might be the solution? Any switches? If machine is agitating/filling ok, that should mean the new control unit did not burn out; or how can I tell by looking at it if it has been damaged?