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glennrc  
#1 Posted : Monday, June 1, 2009 11:59:30 AM(UTC)
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glennrc

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I have the old boot gasket off. That was no problem. How do I seat the new gasket?
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glennrc  
#2 Posted : Monday, June 1, 2009 7:50:04 PM(UTC)
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glennrc

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OK! I figured it out with some chop sticks, masking tape and a piece of string. If there is anyone else out there that has the same Bosch Boot Gasket issue. I let me know and I let you know how to do it. I'm sure the pro's have a tool or something but my method worked. Did two loads of laundry and everything went fine.
andrewf9  
#3 Posted : Wednesday, December 2, 2009 1:42:18 PM(UTC)
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andrewf9

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i am contemplating undertaking this repair - removing the old and installing a new one that i intend to order from this site. any advice?
glennrc  
#4 Posted : Thursday, December 3, 2009 4:46:46 AM(UTC)
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glennrc

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Taking the old gasket off is pretty easy. Putting the new one on is the tricky part.

When you take the old one off notice that it is attached in two locations. The inside of the washer opening and the washer drum. Take the washer opening wire off first. I used a needle nose pilers. You can see a spring near the door hinge on the outside of the washer. Once that is off you can put the gasket toward you. There is another spring that holds the gasket to the washer. That will just come out with the old gasket. Keep both the wire and spring fasteners. You will need them to put the new one on. The gasket will probably slimmy so have a place to put it down once its out of the washer.

Here is the part that you need to have alot of patients. Don't set a time limit to do this job.

I should tell you I'm not a professional repair man but here is how I got the gasket back in.

Clean out the gunk and slime from the inside of the washer. The drum will swing freely so you can get a rag or papertowel in between the drum and the washer. Work in reverse from how you got the gasket out. First put the new gasket in with the drain holes at he bottom of the door. The same principles apply as changing a bike tire. Keep streching the gasket around the drum until that part is seated. Don't worry about the door gasket yet. Take the spring fastener and tie a peace of cotton string to one end of it. Then wrap the string around the door hing to hold one end of the spring in place. You will have to work without seeing what you are doing for the next part. Pull the spring around the gasket as close to the drum as you can get. The spring will have alot of tension and will collapse the gasket a little. Then the spring up to the groove in the drum with the gasket seated in the groove start seating the spring in the groove. I used chop sticks and masking tape just like a bike tire wrench. I wedged the chop stick under the spring to hold that part in place then taped the chop stick to the door opening with the masking tape. Keeped working around the gasket until the spring was completely seated. Be carefull not to move the bottom of the gasket too much. You want to keep the drain holes at the bottom of the drum. Once the spring is seated around the gasket on the inside cut the string off the spring.

That is the hard part. After that attaching the outer part of the gasket to the door opening is pretty easy and the wire fastener when on with just using the needle nose piler to help pull it around the gasket.

I think it took me an hour or so to put the gasket on once I fingured out how to hold the interior spring in place with the chop sticks.

Good Luck!
andrewf9  
#5 Posted : Thursday, December 3, 2009 7:08:16 AM(UTC)
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andrewf9

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Glenn,

I actually messed with it out last night and figured it out. I had my wife hold the spring instead of the chopstick and that worked pretty well. I tried a chip clip (thing that holds potato chip bags closed) at first, but that did not work.

there is another thread on this topic and posted basically the same solution you have above on it.

thanks,

andrew
glennrc  
#6 Posted : Thursday, December 3, 2009 2:27:07 PM(UTC)
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glennrc

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Hi Andrew,
Glad that worked for you. I forgot that extra hands work even better.

Glenn
kapurnicus  
#7 Posted : Saturday, March 21, 2015 1:14:12 PM(UTC)
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kapurnicus

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For random people who stumble upon this thread. I just put a bosch 00701333 on a WFVC3300UC/20 washing machine. A lot of websites will tell you to take the top off, then the control panel, then the front face. Basically disassemble the entire washer to change the boot. This is unnecessary (although might be easier). You can access everything you need, though tightly without removing anything. All my hardware on the left side was rusted out because of spilled detergent, so removing the panels would have required drilling out all the screws and figuring out how to put in new ones.

What I did: I ordered a new 00701333 for $80. I opened the washer door and grabbed the spring part of the retaining wire (one of the eye loops connecting the spring) with a pair of needle nose pliers and pulled up and toward the center of the washer. Wire came off really easily. I then unseated the boot from the metal retaining loop around the opening (that the wire sits in) pushing it into the washing machine. Towards the top of the washer the boot is connected to a spout with a hose clamp. I grabbed the hose clamp with a pair of channel locks and disconnected the boot from the pipe. I then grabbed the next retaining wire around the other part inside the washer that the boot is connected to by the same eye whole by the spring (this was directly at the top, I don't know where yours will be). I lifted up and pulled out towards me, easily removing the retaining wire. I then pulled the old boot out. This process took about 5 minutes. Will probably take less for you now that you know what you are looking for. No reason to be gentle with the old boot, but DONT break the retaining wires, the boot does NOT come with new ones (They are very sturdy, you will likely have to cut them to destroy them, just wanted to issue caution).

The old boot is now removed, discard it, but keep the 2 retaining wires and the hose clamp. Place the new boot roughly where it needs to go. Make sure that the two large thick sections looking into the drum are at like 11 and 1 if the drum was a clock. Also, that the spout connector is very close to where it needs to be. Finally, there is a little notch in the bottom that the boot will sit in (There is a little bridge piece on the boot that sits in that notch). This is to ensure that it won't seat properly unless everything is oriented correctly. If you know this going in you will save yourself from having to take the boot back out and re-orient it. I then shoved the boot into the hole all the way around the drum (the part of the boot that should be in there). It went in pretty easy all the way around after I had that notch in the correct place. I then put the outmost part of the boot all the way around the part it sits on. You will have to pull up and push into the washer to get the wire retaining trench of the boot up on the ledge it has to sit on. Once you have done that run your hand all the way around that ledge to make sure the boot is sitting up on it. If the boot is not on the ledge it will not seal properly (the retaining wire will not have the ledge to hold onto and won't go on properly). In places I had to pull up and push up from inside the boot. Double check its in the right spot all the way around. I then place the retaining wire into the track trench at the bottom, farthest from the spring, and worked it around until I had it all in there except maybe 10-2 if the drum was a clock. I then connect 10-12, all the way up to the spring and pulled up hard at about 1 o'clock. Using my thumbs as a wedge I slowly worked it around. The last part just had to be pushed up and over into the trench (about 2 inches of the wire). Now reconnect the spout with the wire clamp. Make sure the two flaps of the boot fit around the notch on the down pipe you are connecting too. This is tight working space, but worth it to ensure that you don't have to remove the front of the machine. I have pretty small arms, you might not be so lucky. Now connect the last part of the boot around the opening. Just lift it up and over the retaining ledge on the outside of the washer. Congrats. The easy part is over. The only thing left is the replacing the outside retaining, which for me was AWFUL! It kept pulling the boot back off of that ledge as I was trying to connect it. I had to restart about 7 times. the inner one was easy for some reason. Your results may vary. I place the eyelet by the spring in first (over by the door) and then ran around until I couldn't any more. I then used a special tool I built (I bent the end of a cheap flat head screwdriver to 30 degree angle to act as a little hook). I then grabbed the wire with this hook at the farthest point from the spring that wasn't in the trench and and hooked it into the trench. I then rode the wire and trench around causing the wire to fall into the trench all the way to the spring. I then had to pull hard out (with the hook at the eyelet) to get the spring over the ledge. This worked great. The hooking process was almost exactly like you would use bike tire hooks to the get the tire back over the rim. Try not to cut the boot with the screw driver. Its pretty thick and resistant, but use care. You are now finished! Several tries to get on the outer wire were required because the retaining ledge where the wire goes is small and the boot easily slips back off of it while you are working. Just be patient. No disassembly was required. This saved so much time. I did the whole job, unboxing to finished in about 45 minutes. Should be less now that you know what to expect, but if the wires are a pain, just be patient.
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