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Model Number: LSE1000 SERIES Q0 Brand: Maytag Age: More than 10 years
THE LID SWITCH BROKE ON MY WASHER. HOW DO I GET TO IT TO REPLACE IT?
ALSO WHAT SCREWS I CAN SEE ON THE WASHER ARE VERY RUSTY, ANY IDEAS BESIDES WD40 ON GETTING THEM OUT? I also have a washer from an LSE1000 Series 1 that works. Will it work with the controller on the series 10? Thanks, Rich ![]() Last edited by rbooher2003 : 12-09-2007 at 10:32 AM. Reason: more info |
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Rich, Don't know if you have resolved this problem or not, but I have the same issue. I know the front comes off this model, but I think the slant panel has to come off first. My lid problem only began after a 3 month summer vacation during which I kept my a/c off and my basement got so damp nearly everything was mildewed or rusted. Anyway, I never shut my lid all the way when I am finished washing, in order to keep less wear and tear on the switch. It will finally engage (I get an "L" prompt on the panel) if I open and close the lid enough times, sometimes, having to turn off and on as many as 15 times before it will work. I know that's not a good workaround, but from what I could see when once I put the setting on Pause and opened the lid while the tub was filing, I think the water input hose needs cleaning because it sprays all over the inside and edges of the tub. It usually works well, once I can get it going. I think the lid sensing mechanism has rusted from last summer's humidity and now that the spray is going everywhere, that's contributing to the problem. When I can save enough money, I'll hire a repairman. Good luck in troubleshooting your washer.
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