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Direct drive motor draws 12 amps during agitation !!
Regardless of which motor and transmission I swap into this machine ( 2 different good used transmissions and 3 different good used motors ) this 10yr WP will draw 12 ton13 amps when agitating with large load. Tub and basket clean and nothing jamming them, basket tube to shaft clean and lubed, and waterpump clear.
During spin cycle motor draws 8 to 9 amps with same load of clothes.
Also, if these motors are thermally protected, at what temp should it trip?
Each of these motors get too hot to touch, yet still keep running at 12 amps. There is no smell of electrical motor failure. And this process has been done outside with cabinet removed and ambient temp is 65 degrees.
Do these motors have a "service factor" amp draw? If so its not stated on motor along with their rating.
Perhaps I'm not getting a good connection to motor during agitation?? If so I m thinking of bypassing timer and wire harnest to motor switch,,,,but which wire combinations should I send a direct power source to for not hi and lo agitations?
Any help or thoughts is appreciated.
For high speed on a 2-speed motor connect hot to motor blue wire and yellow wire. Connect neutral to motor white and capacitor. Remove red wire coming from timer from capacitor and connect there (to the capacitor). For low speed, hot to motor orange and yellow.
I don't know the trip temp rating for the thermal overload but the motor is rated for max ambient surrounding air temp of 40°C (104°F) and winding insulation rating of 130°C (266°F). The thermal switch is mounted on the frame right next to the motor switch.
Randomly after spin wet cloths, especially bigger loads.
Dear richappy and other washer pros,
I have Kenmore Elite 11026922502 (about 10 years old), has been running ok, until about a year sometime cloths are quite wet after what looks like normal spin. Then I set it for additional spin and it is OK, sometime even one additional spin is needed. This problem became more frequent recently. I checked the coupler, it looked ok. I checked also clutch (it is 6 pad clutch) and after removing from washer I could move it with the finger, it moves but it does not feel loose. There was also a lot of little dark pieces inside of the clutch coming most likely from the brake shoe pads as they has been wearing off by time. The brake pads does not look thin though and I could also turn plastic cam till the brake release and rotate counter-clockwise without any problem.
My question is what should I replace if washer spins and randomly (but recently more often) cloths remain quite wet after normally looking spin.
1. Replace clutch (if yes should I install 6 pad or 3 pad, original is 6 pad).
2. Replace brake shoes? Or just grease shoe cam rollers?
3. Replace also tub suspension pads (after 10 years of use)?
Thank you for your suggestions!
If it spins empty, and not with a full load, its your clutch. All thats required to repair is a few tools. If your not comfortable enough to repair it yourself, the repair usually costs around $180 to $220. All depending on the repair company used. I replace these all day long, and this is one of the most common issues with the 80 and 90 series washers.
Replacing direct drive washer brake shoes
Thank you for your great discussion and video on Brake shoe replacement for Whirlpool type direct drive washers - VERY helpful.
I thought that I might pass along a secret that I discovered about brake problems. I picked up a "curb" washer with a bad clutch. When troubleshooting by manually rotating the motor shaft (pump off) using an adjustable wrench, I found a HEAVY resistance when turning the motor shaft in the SPIN direction (clockwise). It appeared to me that the brake was not releasing.
I replaced the clutch assembly, which included a new Driver Cam (white plastic). Even on the new driver cam (brake release arm), there seemed to be excessive slop between the driver ID and the spin tube OD. In addition, there was quite a lot of backlash / end play between the driver and it's retaining ring. I suspected all this LOST MOTION was preventing the brake shoes from fully releasing.
I fabricated an .032 steel washer to install under the retaining ring to take up most of the end play - IT WORKED!
I didn't really want to MAKE a washer and figured I could modify a large OD wood/fender washer to fit. No luck - seems all are .062 (1/16) and too thick.
Next, I looked at (automotive) valve spring insert shim washers and found one that just needed a very slight increase (.010) on the ID to fit. The only trouble is that washer is only used on a RARE engine and not available locally. Since I didn't want to spend $30 to order a box of washers when I only needed one, I went ahead and made a washer from sheet steel.
Since many of you are in the business of appliance repair and wouldn't mind spending 30 bucks for a box, I will pass along the part number: B-400-S. This is a steel washer .030 thick, 1.180 ID, 1.650 OD. This is a Pioneer or VSI part number. My spin tube measures 1.185 OD. so the washer ID needs to be opened up only about .010 which could be easily accomplished with a Dremel hand grinder. An .060 washer is also available as A-400-S, but I doubt if you will need one THAT thick.
The shim washer has serrations on one side which could eat plastic, so keep that side toward the steel snap ring.
I think that this method may eliminate the need of grinding off material ("up to 1/8 inch") on the brake shoes to eliminate drag.
I hope this helps.
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