[bigmontana]

I have a series 10 MAH97000 neptune that will not spin. The washer fills but then does not spin...no error code. I forced it to drain and and left unpluged for a while but no change. I put the washer into service mode and tried to run a quick spin test but I get nothing...no spin and no error code. I hear a non-normal buzzing sound coming from the motor that persists even if the washer is "off" that only goes away when I unplug or pull the motor power leads. I checked for contiguity and proper resistance on the motor and they check out. One time in service mode I did get the drum to turn just slightly and then I got an over current error message. I successfully ran a bunch of other input and output board checks so my questions is do I have a bad motor, bad board, or both. Also should I replace the door motor preemptively as in other models?

Edited: This washer has a pancake motor so no belts. I can spin the tub with what seems to be appropriate turning resistance. Is there another way to test the motor or do I have to hope that fixes it and if not replace the main board.

More troubleshooting: Based on a suggestion I measured the voltage on the CN9 motor connector and I am getting something weird. As I mentioned earlier I hear a buzzing sound which I can definitely trace to the motor. I can hear it when the washer is off or on and idle and if I turn the washer on and off again a couple times the buzzing goes away. When I don't hear the buzzing I see 4 VDC and 2 VAC across each pins 1-2 and 1-3 of the motor connector. When I hear the buzzing even if the washer is off or idle I see 34 VDC and 10 VAC on the same pins. If I turn on and off till no buzzing again and then I put the washer in a quick spin test I see 50 VDC and 17 VAC and I get a bE error code indicating a tach signal when the washer is not driving the motor...strange being that the washer just tried to spin and successfully moved the tub a few deg. So I took the motor apart to check for a broken magnet or crossed wire but I don't see anything obvious. I put the motor back together and ran the above tests again with the same exact results.

Further update. I saw on another forum that an "expert" said you can only get valid voltages when the motor is connected. I tried to rig up my multimeter and do the above procedure and I did something bad. When I ran the quick spin test I smoked my temporary wiring and left a black mark on the wiring harness. Now when I run the above test instead of getting a bE error code I get a 3E motor over current. I tested everything else and it doesn't look like anything else was effected. When I went to test the voltages again I ran the quick spin test and I get the same voltages but I get a E3 error code with the CN9 connect off instead of no error code as before.

Did I just ensure I need to buy a new control board?

[bigmontana]

Well after a few days of not hearing I went with my gut and ordered another mainboard. The main reason I decided on that is that I knew this was a 2 phase motor based on having the thing apart and guessed that meant that I should expect 120V on each phase ...and as indicated above I was getting half that. I tried to test the motor based on the advice here WHIRLPOOL Motor - Drum, part number: AP4044223 but my motor did not test with those numbers so not sure if mine is different somehow. Anyways I put the new board in and bingo everything worked. I wanted to post this reply so others would be able to benefit from my experience. What I found most confusing is that everything seemed to be ok except the motor not turning and I would have initially expected a E3 error code based on what I now know. I am guessing maybe the old board had a bad capacitor as I did not observe any physical damage so maybe the board did not know it was not sending enough power. Long story short if the drum turns a few degrees and stops with no error code you may have the same thing I had.

Do yourself a favor and leave the door cracked when the washer is not in use so you avoid growing things on the seals