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I can't find the model number. This unit stopped between cycles and now won't run at all. I have checked the following: 1) Power is OK. 2) The lid switch is OK. There is a connector that goes to the lid switch. An ohmmeter shows continuity with the lid closed and none when open. 3) In another thread I found the following: Quote: Originally Posted by applianceman. If you ever got you hands on that meter you were talking about try these test.
Check to see if you have voltage coming to the timer on the black wire coming from the cord to the white wire.
If you do have voltage there Turn the washer to the beginning of the cycle and turn it on. On the water level switch you should see a purple wire (that comes from the timer) check to see if you have voltage from that wire to the white wire from the cord.
If you have voltage in the first test and do not on the second test the timer is bad.
If you have voltage at both places check to see if you have voltage from that purple wire to the pink wire you should not have voltage there with the no water in the tub and if you do that switch is bad.
Post what you find. I did these tests. There is voltage to the timer. There is voltage at the purple wire on the water level switch. There is also voltage between the purple and pink wire at the water level switch. There is no visible water in the tub but I know some water has run and not drained. One other thing. While playing around, one time with the temp switch unplugged the machine ran for a bit. This is not reproducible. The post by applianceman tends to make me think it is the water level switch, but not knowing if the bit of water remaining may invalidate the final there makes me not want to go out and buy the new switch. So can I somehow bypass the water level switch and verify that it sd indeed the problem? Or is there something else I can try? Thanks
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