[thebearaz]

With the help of this forum, and Dick in particular, I disassembled my washer as it had a tub leak. I replaced the outer tub bearing & tub seal. The outer tub bearing was a split bearing design that I could not find anywhere, I did find the 6207rs and saw posts where that was used in place of the split bearing. My issue is in that post it says to shim it as it is not as thick as the split one. I did not do this. I reassembled the unit, ran just water through it and it ran great, and quiet, I then ran a load of towels through it and again it ran great but there was a smell in the room I pulled front cover and thought the motor got hot. The next morning I ran a load of jeans and there was water all over the floor. I pulled everything apart again and saw that the new tub seal I put on was wasted, and it smelled like what the room smelled like after the second load. My question. would not shimming that outer tub bearing cause this problem?

[dh1200s]

“”The outer tub bearing was a split bearing design that I could not find anywhere, I did find the 6207rs and saw posts where that was used in place of the split bearing. My issue is in that post it says to shim it as it is not as thick as the split one. I did not do this.””

I have not done this but other forum members have. And yes I believe that integrated bearing assembly (part ball and part One-Way) will not be found anywhere.

You have to place a shim or multiple shims to make up for the reduced bearing thickness. Unfortunately I have no info on this except to point you to this post; Where are the bearings? Did you read thru that post by any chance?

You will have to shim out the Bottom Outer tub bearing so that you can torque down the Spinner Support to seat the Tub Seal properly.
Does the bottom of you outer tub have the notches as my series 10 pic shows below?

I hope so because I believe you may have to use the Upper One-Way Bearing ring to prevent the Spinner Support from rotating during the agitate part of the wash cycle.

Sorry I can offer no more help with FAV6800A/FAV9800A with the redesigned Outer Tub using that integrated bearing. Question for you. Is the integrated bearing the Lower Outer tub bearing Clutch Pulley side or the Upper Outer Tub bearing Tub Seal side.

Dick

[dh1200s]

Sorry double post.....I removed the text.

[thebearaz]

Yes, My model 15 does have the notches you show in the pic. I did also read through that post and it offered no help on shimming, do I shim on the tub side? or the nut side? I would assume the tub side. I was experiencing the tub spinning during the agitation portion of the cycle, grrrrrrr so frustrated that I spent this kind of bucks on a top of the line unit to only last 6 years. I ended up going on craigslist and purchasing a 10 year old whirlpool la7680xkw and it operates flawlessly. I paid less for that than I did the parts and that stupid wrench I had to buy to get the bottom nut off. Sorry just venting a bit. I am going to re assemble and sell this POS. Dick, thanks for all your help. BTW the split bearing is on the bottom/clutch portion of the tub.

[thebearaz]

OK, I see now where they mention what to use as shims, but......how does that stop the unit from spinning CW while in the agitation mode. mine did this and it would not balance when it got to the drain/spin cycle. It also does not mention where to put the shims. tub side?

[dh1200s]

""Yes, My model 15 does have the notches you show in the pic""

I feel you have to use that Upper Bearing Ring which mounts above the Clutch Pulley in those notches.

""I was experiencing the tub spinning during the agitation portion of the cycle""

That One-Way Bearing ring has the HF3520 One-way bearing pressed into it to prevent the wash basket/tub from spinning CW in wash/agitate cycle and spin freely in the CCW Spin direction.

That One-Way bearing is the exact bearing used in the FAV6800A and FAV9800A Clutch Pulley assemblies. It is just pressed in the Clutch Pulley white bearing plate in a direction to allow the Clutch Pulley One-Way bearing to rotate freely around the Spinner Coupler (my name for it) in the CW direction the wash /agitate direction and lock up in the CCW spin direction to rotate the Spinner Support in the Outer Tub bearings during Spin Cycle.

Here is that bearing http://www.vxb.com/page/bearings/PROD/One-Way-Bearings/Kit8640

By using the 6207-2RS bearing you are converting the Outer Tub to the old style design and you have to use the Upper One-Way bearing ring to prevent the wash tub from rotating CW in wash/agitate cycle.

Your Outer Tub design and my Series 16 and 17 machines use that new Outer Tub design with the Lower integrated bearing consisting of the split bearing assembly, one half ball bearing and the other half One-Way bearing to prevent the Wash basket/Tub from spinning CW in wash agitate cycle.

From my post above ; ""You will have to shim out the Bottom Outer tub bearing so that you can torque down the Spinner Support to seat the Tub Seal properly.""

That bottom Outer Tub Bearing (Clutch Pulley side of the Outer Tub) is the 6207-2RS bearing that the Spinner Support 1.75 inch not draws up against and that is where the shims go.


""BTW the split bearing is on the bottom/clutch portion of the tub.""


Thank you that confirms where I felt it had to be. Now if I only had the bearing thickness I could research the proper shims needed. Want to sell that old split bearing assembly? Let me know.


It's time for me to tear down my perfectly good working FAV6800A Series 16 that uses that integrated bearing assembly in the Lower Outer Tub bearing and rebuild the Outer Tub so I can speak directly on the Shim type needed to build out that Bottom Outer Tub bearing spacing using 6207-2RS bearings so the 1.75" Spinner Support nut can be properly torqued down.

You are the 1st owner to give me feedback on that BS bearing assembly the Maytag rocket scientist came up with…….they screwed up on that one and made a straight forward Outer Tub bearing replacement job a PITA.


The work around has worked for other owners as the post's I linked you to describe. Sorry to hear about your troubles.


If you visit most of my post you will see just how hard it is for me to extract accurate information from owners that would help other owners.

“”I ended up going on craigslist and purchasing a 10 year old whirlpool la7680xkw and it operates flawlessly.””

My every day machine a Series 17 which cost me $.99 *bay and $15 in gas and tolls. Just needed a 30 min Clutch Pulley bearing re-lube.


My original Series 16 perfectly working machine is in the basement. Also picked up a Series 10 Machine for $40 and that was just to do an Outer Tub rebuild for the hands on experience.

“”I paid less for that than I did the parts and that stupid wrench””

If you have access to and air/electric ½” impact that is all that is needed to loosen the Spinner Support nut. You can lock down the Spinner Support from rotating as seen on page 45 of the Service Manual during reassembly and use a standard 1.75 wrench or socket to torque down the Spinner Nut to SM specs………I just snug it down.

Good luck with the whirlpool…………Dick

[thebearaz]

Dick, the bottom split bearing is shot and some of the bearings themselves were missing, it would do you no good. Thanks for the help.

[dh1200s]

Originally Posted by thebearaz

Dick, the bottom split bearing is shot and some of the bearings themselves were missing, it would do you no good. Thanks for the help.

No problem I was only interested in the bearing halves thickness so I could hunt down the right shims for other owners.

Have a good one........Dick

[thebearaz]

Ahhh, I see. I will try to get a measurement on it and let you know.

[thebearaz]

Dick, I put a micrometer to the old split bearing and it measures out at .875 inches thickness. FYI