Today I was washing a cat bed that was full of hair. I got as much out as possible, but a lot still came out in the washer. After the first cycle I decided to run it through one last time.

It seemed to go through all the cycle normally. But at the end the lid wouldn't unlock. I tried to move the dial to get the lid to unlock but it stayed locked. So i ran another short cycle and waited 30 minutes. It was still locked. So I took a pry bar and had to pop it open.

After I got it opened I saw that it was full of water. The plastic part that moves under the dryer surface was broken, so I manually depressed that switch to get the washer to run. With that switch depressed it will go through the fill and wash stages, but it still won't drain.

I removed the hoses from the pump and they look clean and clear. I'm getting 120 volts to the lid switch, but I can't get anything at the pump. It's always reading 40-60 volts at the pump, and always reads the same at the lid switch. But when I turn the dial to the drain cycle I get a full 120 volts at the lid switch only.

What can I do at this point? The lid switch seems to have 2 parts. There is one part that has 2 black wires and I just took that off and taped the button down since the plastic piece that depresses it is broken. The other part has 3 wires and 2 of them had continuity to the wires on the pump, so I'm assuming that's what controls the power to the pump if the lid is closed. The third wire is a mystery to me. And when I slide the switch on that one nothing seems to change across any of the 3 pins. 2 of the wires are always connected, and the 3rd is always isolated from the others. Is there a safe way to just bypass this switch? I don't care if it runs with the lid open.

Can I take the 2 wires going into the switch with the 3 wires and run the 2 that are the same color as the pump wire directly into the pump to bypass the lid switch?

The wires going into the lid switch seem to respond to the dial. There is just no power to the pump coming out of the lid switch.