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Joined: 8/22/2011(UTC)
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We replaced the timer about three months ago because the machine wasn't draining/spinning consistently, though it would if we reset the cycle manually. The problem got better, but then started to come back. Last night the machine was working fine one load, then would not fill on the next. However, if I advance the timer manually it will spin when I get to that cycle. The soak light also goes on if I manually move the timer to that cycle. It appears that the fuse is blown, but when I put a new one in, no change (the fuse says 250v, but doesn't have an amperage, so I will be getting another and retesting that later.) I'm wondering if this could be the mixing valve or the lid switch? I'm also inclined to change out the imbalance switch due to the spin/drain issue. Your opinion is appreciated.
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 8/16/2007(UTC)
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Here is a break down drawing, showing the related parts to the lid switch assembly. Part of your description sounds like a problem with a consistent contact between the plunger and the lid switch. It also sounds like a timer problem. Although you say you recently bought a replacement timer, it IS possible to get a bad one right out of the box. Rather than buying another timer, it may be time to have a pro come to your machine for an on site diagnosis. Let us know what you find. Top replacement parts for MAYTAG LAT3914AAE WASHER-TOP LOADING | AppliancePartsPros.com
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 8/22/2011(UTC)
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I continued to troubleshoot this. First I replaced the fuse - no change. Then I popped a piece of copper tube in place of the fuse (as I didn't have another) and the machine worked normally. I just put in the correct fuse and the machine seems to be working normally. What would cause the lid switch fuse to blow - or put another way, should I simply change the lid switch assembly?
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 8/16/2007(UTC)
Posts: 3,273
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 8/22/2011(UTC)
Posts: 4
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Thanks, I will. BTW, I only used the tube as a test (fire extinguisher handy - though it should blow the house current circuit before causing a fire) as I didn't have another fuse available. I ran to an auto store and got some new fuses, plugged one in and it seems to be working fine. One last question, if you don't mind, is it worth changing out the balance switch assembly or the water valve (maybe called a mixer, the piece behind where the hoses enter the machine) as well, or do those tend to last the life of the machine. As long as I have the machine apart I would like to take care of any preventive maintenance I can. Thanks for your help with this.
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 8/16/2007(UTC)
Posts: 3,273
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This is my personal opinion. (It is shared by many in this field). It is well worth the cost to keep this machine alive. It is the line Maytag built, before they started buying out other manufacturers. Unless it is badly eaten up with rust, it will probably still work when you pass it along to your children.
The water inlet valve must be replaced if it becomes fouled up with sediment and calcium deposits. the switches are still available (as are most of the other components.
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 8/22/2011(UTC)
Posts: 4
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Thanks. I value your opinion and will follow your advice. I ordered the lid switch and will replace other parts as necessary. Do I need to do something else to show the site that your advice has helped me to resolve my problem (and got them a parts sale)?
V/r
Noah
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 8/16/2007(UTC)
Posts: 3,273
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Your thanks are really all that's necessary. Most of us here are volunteers, who just like showing folks how to fix their appliances, while saving you a bunch of money by doing it yourselves.
My reward is seeing you end up with a machine that works again.
Do, however, thank the company that sells the parts. It's your business that keeps this site going.
It would be cool to see your machine, still going strong, five years from now!
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