[jhonster]

I have the same problem. If I hear the machine stop agitating and then go to tub drain/spin cycle, I hear the pump draining the tub....but it won't spin unless I open and reclose the lid. There is a pause between the agitation cycle and the tub drain/spin cycle, so does that mean my timer is cutting the power? I'm just not sure if replacing the timer would be the total fix for my scenario. Anyway to verify this?

I've been an automotive mechanic for 35 years, so electrical and mechanic equipment isn't an issue for me. So please don't be shy in explaining something technically to me.

Thanks in advance for any help. Its much appreciated. I already replaced the clutch assembly and now the machine doesn't have the loud "clack" noise when the tub does actually spin in the latter spin cycle.

[sidfink43]

I am assuming this is a direct drive Whirlpool made machine.

Your machine has a neutral drain, meaning when it starts to drain the transmission shifts into neutral so it is not trying to turn the tub while it is full of water.

The timer needs to pause the motor after the drain is complete. This causes the transmission to shift into spin. If the motor does not pause, no shift. So the timer is not doing its "pause" job, and when you open and close the lid you are doing the pause job for it. That is why it starts spinning after you do that.

So replacing the timer should fix your problem.

[isubucky]

I have been fighting what appears as a similar issue as the OP. Whirlpool direct drive (LSR7233EQ0, about 15 years old). As the OP stated, washer fills, agitates (2 steps), the pump drains the drum, but the drum does not spin. If I open the lid after the pump starts to drain and reclose (couple second delay) the drum will spin. Same behavior occurs on the rinse cycle. In my case there is a PAUSE between agitation and drain.

I have replaced the clutch (kit), the neutral drain (kit), and motor coupling, and still the same behavior.

I am not convinced it is the timer since the pause between agitate and drain/spin is quite apparent. However the only part I have left is the Brake and Drive tube.

Running out of options and looking for suggestions...

Good news, I can disassemble this thing pretty quickly....

To the OP, not intending to threadjack, but based on the symptoms I hope both can benefit.

[sidfink43]

Once it starts to drain it is in neutral. If you open the lid and interrupt the drain it will cause the machine to shift into spin.

Replace the timer, that should fix your problem.

[isubucky]

Thanks, I will try that!

[isubucky]

The local appliance store does not have a timer in stock, so waiting until next week to get one. In the meantime, is there any way to jumper it to temporarily "get by" and confirm that is the issue?

Also, I would like to better understand the role of the time in the spin cycle. I understand that the time ultimately switches power to the motor (in my case the motor appears to be running correctly). However, I do not understand how the timer controls tub spin. That looks mechanical to me.

Thanks!

[sidfink43]

I do not know of any way to test the timer. The test is basically what you have done, when you open the lid you mimic the timer stopping the motor to allow the shift out of neutral to take place.

You can try turning the timer vigorously for about 15 seconds, sometimes that will give you a temporary fix.

If you buy from the part from this site you will probably get it less expensive and you can return it if it does not fix the problem (no, those of us who respond do not work for APP, we are volunteers who do not receive any compensation from the company, so we can recommend them with independence)

[isubucky]

Thanks for the info, sorry for all the questions, just trying to understand how it works.

I ran it through a wash cycle this morning...

1. Fill
2. Hi Agitate
3. Brief Pause (did not count the time)
4. Low Agitate
5. 5 second pause
6. Drain but no spin (30 seconds)
7. Opened the lid and closed
8. Drain and spin

[sidfink43]

This service manual will explain the neutral drain and why the motor pause is necessary to shift the transmission in far more detail than you really want to know

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Servic...$FILE/L-55.pdf

but then you say you really want to know.

[shmoozer]

Well, any feedback? Mine is doing the same and I did clean the contacts inside the timer several years ago. I cleaned them again; only one seemed burned. I have a 11092583810 Kenmore Washer. The cheapest timer I found was on (withheld) for $89 but now I'll check this site for a price. I would rather just replace the contacts if they can be purchased. Can I buy just the contact pack for the washer instead of buying the whole timer?