Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 6/14/2011(UTC)
Posts: 3
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I have a GE Front Load Washer - Model # WCVH6800J0WW. I get an error code 54 when in service test mode.
I referenced the GE Technical Service Guide 31-9135 to try and diagnose what the problem is. I tested the motor for the proper OHMS between the terminals and I also tested the sensor OHMS on the designated terminals on the motor as well. All are reading to spec. I am assuming from these tests that there are no open windings on the motor....is this assumption correct?
I replaced the inverter board as I thought it was the most likely culprit. The original inverter did provide any ohm readings between the red and blue, red and white, and blue and white plug ends with my ohm meter. I tested the new board and it has the same corresponding readings.
The motor will not spin the drum in test mode t10,t11. I do not have the option of t14. My test menu stops at t13.
The washer passes the fill and pump test and the pump is performing to spec. Please help.....desperate to do laundry.
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 6/14/2011(UTC)
Posts: 3
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Could it also be that the new inverter board is bad as well.
The main control board seems to be working and no error codes are showing up for it.
Thanks - Fixitguy61
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 6/14/2011(UTC)
Posts: 3
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gene do you have any advice for me?
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 6/24/2011(UTC)
Posts: 1
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I have the exact same issue, it seems. I am able to run the pump test, but not the spin tests, the control panel just beeps at me when i try to activate t11. I'm also getting the 54 error.
I have taken the motor to a repair shop and they tested it -- works great. I bought a control board off [a very popular online auction site...] and I still have the same problem.
When i start a cycle, i just get a bunch of clicks, no water. The only time I get water in the drum is if i initiate the pump test in the diagnostic mode. This lead me to believe (incorrectly, it now seems) that the control board wasn't sending the proper signals & was therefore bad. So much for that theory.
At my wits end here, especially after reading how the above user replaced his inverter board and still has the same problem. (I understand they could be different issues, but they sound very similar).
Anyone out there have any other ideas?
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