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I have an older Neptune washer and dryer set. The washer stopped spinning a couple of days ago. I have

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Old 06-08-2011, 05:59 PM
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Default Neptune washer not spinning
Model Number: MAH3000AWW   Brand: Maytag   Age: More than 10 years   

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I have an older Neptune washer and dryer set. The washer stopped spinning a couple of days ago. I have checked a few possible problems.
The controls are set for max extract and cotton/sturdy.
So it's not those settings.
I have run it through its wash and spin cycle without clothes and it still did not spin.
There has been no incidents in the last 6 months of an unbalanced load and the spin cycle has been working fine, so I don't think a part (like a sensure) has been broken.

The motor on the waher was replaced about 2 years ago. So, I think it is unlikely that it's the motor. Also, all the other functions work fine.

I'm thinking it could be the motor control. Can I get some help with this?


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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 06-09-2011, 10:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rladamsIII View Post
I have an older Neptune washer and dryer set. The washer stopped spinning a couple of days ago. I have checked a few possible problems.
The controls are set for max extract and cotton/sturdy.
So it's not those settings.
I have run it through its wash and spin cycle without clothes and it still did not spin.
There has been no incidents in the last 6 months of an unbalanced load and the spin cycle has been working fine, so I don't think a part (like a sensure) has been broken.

The motor on the waher was replaced about 2 years ago. So, I think it is unlikely that it's the motor. Also, all the other functions work fine.

I'm thinking it could be the motor control. Can I get some help with this?

RL,

Try this first,

Start the washer as you normally do, let the unit run for 60 to 90 seconds, then check to see if the "door Locked" light illuminates, and the door is actually "locked".

The most common issue for this complaint, is the door lock wax motor has failed and shorted the R 11 resistor on the main control board, up in the control panel.

Thanks,

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Old 06-09-2011, 11:35 AM
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Smile followup to door locking

The door on the Neptune washer did not lock. We followed the procedure: started the machine waited 60 to 90 seconds and the door lock light did not illuminate and teh door would open. We closed the door and re-started the machine, waited another 60 seconds and the door lock light was still not illumicated and the door would still open. We closed the door again and moved the dial to spin cycle to drain off the water and the then the door lock light illuminated and the door was locked. After the machine finihsed it's cycle, we started it into a new cycle. THis time we just let it run. The door lock light illuminated after 3-1/2 minutes (210 seconds) and the door was locked.

Do you have some advice on what to do next?
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Old 06-09-2011, 01:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rladamsIII View Post
The door on the Neptune washer did not lock. We followed the procedure: started the machine waited 60 to 90 seconds and the door lock light did not illuminate and teh door would open. We closed the door and re-started the machine, waited another 60 seconds and the door lock light was still not illumicated and the door would still open. We closed the door again and moved the dial to spin cycle to drain off the water and the then the door lock light illuminated and the door was locked. After the machine finihsed it's cycle, we started it into a new cycle. THis time we just let it run. The door lock light illuminated after 3-1/2 minutes (210 seconds) and the door was locked.

Do you have some advice on what to do next?
RL,

A couple of things you can try,

Once you unplug the power cord and remove the front of the control console, and have access to the main control board in the right rear corner. remove one multi plug connector at a time, wih a large needle or pin, insert the end into the contact opening and expand the metal contact, and check each wire for a proper "seat" and "lock" in the connector, and reconnect the connector on the board.

Check the R11 resistor, and area for heavy discoloration and damage, the resistor may appear to have a bubble or bumpy surface, it should'nt.
( on the control board aprroximately 1 inch up from the connector harnesses, you should see a white/gray/ or blue colored rectangular plastic box, just above that box there should be 2 resistors labelled R11 and R75, in a horizontal position).

If your issue is still present or persists after checcking the wiring and resistor condition, repalce the board and wax motor at the same time.

Part number: AP4009198

Part number: AP4009198


Part number: AP4026826

Part number: AP4026826

This photo is upside down, from actual orientation

Good Luck,

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Old 06-10-2011, 11:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe / APP Team View Post
RL,

A couple of things you can try,

Once you unplug the power cord and remove the front of the control console, and have access to the main control board in the right rear corner. remove one multi plug connector at a time, wih a large needle or pin, insert the end into the contact opening and expand the metal contact, and check each wire for a proper "seat" and "lock" in the connector, and reconnect the connector on the board.

Check the R11 resistor, and area for heavy discoloration and damage, the resistor may appear to have a bubble or bumpy surface, it should'nt.
( on the control board aprroximately 1 inch up from the connector harnesses, you should see a white/gray/ or blue colored rectangular plastic box, just above that box there should be 2 resistors labelled R11 and R75, in a horizontal position).

If your issue is still present or persists after checcking the wiring and resistor condition, repalce the board and wax motor at the same time.

Part number: AP4009198

Part number: AP4009198


Part number: AP4026826

Part number: AP4026826

This photo is upside down, from actual orientation

Good Luck,


I when through these steps. Pulled the multiplugs, reseated them and reattached the plugs. Looked over the resistors with a good bright light and a magnifying glass. They look fine. So did the rest of the board.
No change in the problem. The washer still will not spin.

If I replace the wax motor and the control board, what chance is there that it will fix the problem? I'm debating the value of repairing vs replacing. The machine is 14 or 15 years old. I would put this much in it, but I don't want to spend more if these parts are not the solutions.

Thanks so much for the help.
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Old 06-10-2011, 03:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rladamsIII View Post
I when through these steps. Pulled the multiplugs, reseated them and reattached the plugs. Looked over the resistors with a good bright light and a magnifying glass. They look fine. So did the rest of the board.
No change in the problem. The washer still will not spin.

If I replace the wax motor and the control board, what chance is there that it will fix the problem? I'm debating the value of repairing vs replacing. The machine is 14 or 15 years old. I would put this much in it, but I don't want to spend more if these parts are not the solutions.

Thanks so much for the help.
RL,

A positively sure test will require a multimeter, and accessing the door latch assembly, and running a voltage test across the wax motor terminals while it is activated. if you maintain a voltage of 110 to 120 VAC, then the board and wax motor are OK. and we can move on to the other components that control the spin cycle. Anything is possible, but the timer and the motor are the least likeliest components that fail and create a problem in the spin cycle.

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Old 06-13-2011, 08:20 AM
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Talking

Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe / APP Team View Post
RL,

A positively sure test will require a multimeter, and accessing the door latch assembly, and running a voltage test across the wax motor terminals while it is activated. if you maintain a voltage of 110 to 120 VAC, then the board and wax motor are OK. and we can move on to the other components that control the spin cycle. Anything is possible, but the timer and the motor are the least likeliest components that fail and create a problem in the spin cycle.

I replaced the wax motor and the control board. Ran the machine first with no clothes and then with a few clothes. No change.

What would be the next step?

This has become a challenge to me. I want to fix this washer.
I may have an extra control board and wax motor, if someone needs one.
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Old 06-13-2011, 01:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rladamsIII View Post
I replaced the wax motor and the control board. Ran the machine first with no clothes and then with a few clothes. No change.

What would be the next step?

This has become a challenge to me. I want to fix this washer.
I may have an extra control board and wax motor, if someone needs one.

RL,

Great, it's a challenge to work on this washer, that's why most people don't like them.

It's a "********** cat" once you get some experience, and don't get confused.

At this point, we're going to be doing DC and AC voltage checks at the main control board, while the washer is running,
You're going to use the Black #1 wire on the Line relay(black box) on the control board as the common lead forr the DC voltage checks, so be careful, we'll get a more accurate reading, but it does have 120 VAC on it.
Make sure you get the point of your meter lead into/ onto the pin in the connector and or foil strip on the board.
I'll be giving you connector number, pin location(from left to right) and wire color.
So, with the washer in a spin cycle, started and running, check the following,

Black to conn. P3 pin 1 red, you should read 24 VDC.
Black to conn. P3 pin 7 yell. you should read 24 VDC.
Black to conn. P2 pin 4 orng. you should read 24 VDC.
P3 pin 1 is 24 vdc out to the components(no DC volts, bad control board)
P3 pin7 is 24 VDC back from the spin enable switch(when the door is locked).
P2 pin 4 is VDC back from the tub off balance switches(any one switch will break the circuit).
Black to conn. P2 pin 3 yell. you should read 24 VDC.
Black to conn. p2 pin 1 purp. you should read 24 VDC.
These are return VDC from the option switch,
Yellow is the max extract selection and purple is the end of cycle buzzer.
Black to conn. P4 pin 3 blu. you should read 24 VDC.
Black to conn. P4 pin 1 yell. you should read 24 VDC.
(the VDC should fluctuate and increase to 24 VDC) as the motor RPM 's incease.
Blue is the power out to the motor control board, and Yellow is the power back to the control board. The red wire is the tach circuit back to the control, you'll have irratic readings until the motor rpm is consistant, then you will read a simillar DCV, as the Yellow wire.

There's only a couple of VAC checks we need to run at this point.
You'll use the P5 conn White wire as your common lead,
So,
From P5 White to Gray wire on the line relay, you should read 120 VAC.
From P5 white to P1 pin 1 purple,you should read 120 VAC.
At the Water level switch(pressure switch),
P5 white to blu #32 wire, you should read 120 VAC
P5 white to Gray wire# 33, you should read 120 VAC.
The gray wire, is power into the control board from the door switch, and you should have VAC whenever the door is closed(does not have to be locked).
The P1 pin 1 purple wire at the control board, is the water level switch return path, no voltage would indicate a bad water level(pressure switch) and the washer won't spin, if it thinks theres water in tub.
No VAC on the gray or blue wire at the switch would indicate a bad timer.

All these checks, are most of the circuits involved in the washer spin cycle.
Let us know what you find , we'll move on from there, if needed.

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Old 07-09-2011, 06:23 PM
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I ran through the diagnostics. Below are the results.

It seems to me that the Spin Enable Switch is the problem. Altough I had a friend helping me and I don't know if the door lock indicator light was on. We had it set in the spin cycle the whole time.



Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe / APP Team View Post
RL,

Great, it's a challenge to work on this washer, that's why most people don't like them.

It's a "********** cat" once you get some experience, and don't get confused.

At this point, we're going to be doing DC and AC voltage checks at the main control board, while the washer is running,
You're going to use the Black #1 wire on the Line relay(black box) on the control board as the common lead forr the DC voltage checks, so be careful, we'll get a more accurate reading, but it does have 120 VAC on it.
Make sure you get the point of your meter lead into/ onto the pin in the connector and or foil strip on the board.
I'll be giving you connector number, pin location(from left to right) and wire color.
So, with the washer in a spin cycle, started and running, check the following,

Black to conn. P3 pin 1 red, you should read 24 VDC. 25.1 VDC
Black to conn. P3 pin 7 yell. you should read 24 VDC. <.1 VDC
Black to conn. P2 pin 4 orng. you should read 24 VDC. 25.1 VDC
P3 pin 1 is 24 vdc out to the components(no DC volts, bad control board)
P3 pin7 is 24 VDC back from the spin enable switch(when the door is locked).
P2 pin 4 is VDC back from the tub off balance switches(any one switch will break the circuit).
Black to conn. P2 pin 3 yell. you should read 24 VDC. 25 VDC
Black to conn. p2 pin 1 purp. you should read 24 VDC. 25VDC
These are return VDC from the option switch,
Yellow is the max extract selection and purple is the end of cycle buzzer.
Black to conn. P4 pin 3 blu. you should read 24 VDC. 25 VDC
Black to conn. P4 pin 1 yell. you should read 24 VDC. 10 VDC
(the VDC should fluctuate and increase to 24 VDC) as the motor RPM 's incease.
Blue is the power out to the motor control board, and Yellow is the power back to the control board. The red wire is the tach circuit back to the control, you'll have irratic readings until the motor rpm is consistant, then you will read a simillar DCV, as the Yellow wire.

There's only a couple of VAC checks we need to run at this point.
You'll use the P5 conn White wire as your common lead,
So,
From P5 White to Gray wire on the line relay, you should read 120 VAC.
118.4 VAC

From P5 white to P1 pin 1 purple,you should read 120 VAC. 51 VAC
At the Water level switch(pressure switch),
P5 white to blu #32 wire, you should read 120 VAC. 51 VAC
P5 white to Gray wire# 33, you should read 120 VAC. 52 VAC
The gray wire, is power into the control board from the door switch, and you should have VAC whenever the door is closed(does not have to be locked).
The P1 pin 1 purple wire at the control board, is the water level switch return path, no voltage would indicate a bad water level(pressure switch) and the washer won't spin, if it thinks theres water in tub.
No VAC on the gray or blue wire at the switch would indicate a bad timer.

All these checks, are most of the circuits involved in the washer spin cycle.
Let us know what you find , we'll move on from there, if needed.

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Old 07-11-2011, 08:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rladamsIII View Post
I ran through the diagnostics. Below are the results.

It seems to me that the Spin Enable Switch is the problem. Altough I had a friend helping me and I don't know if the door lock indicator light was on. We had it set in the spin cycle the whole time.
RL,

Great job, and pretty good report.

You definitely have a bad spin enable switch,

Part number: AP4028524

Part number: AP4028524


Or broken yellow wire, from the switch to the control board(if the door is locking).
I'm a little concerned about the timer / pressure switch circuits.
Try this, remove the 1/4 in. air dome hose from the pressure switch and blow into it, that'll clear any debris in the line that maybe causing a problem. Disconnect the Blue #32 and the Gray # 33 wire from the switch, Be carefull, another live voltage test, start the washer in a spin cycle, and re check for 120 VAC from the wire terminals to chassis ground. If you have the voltage , reconnect everything and test the spin cycle again( after you bypass the spin enable switch, attach the red and yellow wires together at the switch).

Good Luck,

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