Frub,

Start by checking the lid switch assembly and wiring,

Part number: AP3180933

Frub,

OK then, it's probably not a lid switch problem.
Is there any noise(motor hum,etc.). Does the washer drain ? Where did the odor seem to be coming from ?

Your washer, has a wrap around cabinet, you really can't access anything without removing the cabinet.
I think this will help:

Servicing Components in the Console
1. Remove
the two Phillips-head screws securing the front corners of the console to the washer top.
(the screws can be located on the backside of the endcaps, under the end caps, or the front corner of the console) being a newer unit, you may have spring loaded clips holding the end caps to the top as well(you may need to use a putty knife to compress the clip).
2. Tip the console back on the hinges that secure the top of the console to the washer back.
Removing the Timer
There are two types of timers. One can be identified by a plastic body. The other has a metal body.
Plastic Body
NOTE: DO NOT ATTEMPT TO REMOVE THE TIMER KNOB BY PULLING FROM
THE FRONT. Doing so will damage the split shaft and require replacing the
entire timer assembly.
1. To remove the timer knob, push the knob in from the front.
2. At the back of the timer, pull the black tab out approximately 3/16", then pull the timer knob off the shaft.
3. Slide the timer dial from the timer hub.
4. Unplug the wiring harness connector from the timer assembly terminals.
5. Remove the one (1) Hex-head screw securing the left side of the timer assembly to the console mounting plate. Then lift the left side and slide the tabs at the right side of the timer assembly from the console mounting plate.
ACCESSING COMPONENTS INSIDE THE WASHER CABINET
Components inside the washer cabinet can be accessed by completely removing the outer cabinet as one unit.
1. Remove the console mounting screws and tilt the console into the service position.
2. Unplug the lid switch harness connector from the receptacle in the washer top.
3. Remove the cabinet mounting clips by placing the flat blade of a screwdriver in the clip
4. Remove the cabinet by tilting it forward and pulling it away from the washer.
5. The rear panel can be tilted back for additional access to components at rear of machine by twisting the rear panel support 90°. and then tilting the rear panel back.

Once you have the console up, you can check the timer and wiring for damage or loose connections.
And when the cabinet's removed we can check for a pump or motor problem.

:) :) :)

Frub,

Yes, we're going to do some basic mechanical checks, once you get the cabinet off.

First, you're going to un clip the spring clips that hold the pump to the top of the motor, and turn the impeller hub on the the bottom side, to see if it's seized up or has an article stuck in it. a seized or clogged drain pump, can drag the motor and cause it to not run.
Then , you'll unscew the 2 scews and unclip the motor from the mount, and set it to the side with the wires attached, you'll need to insert a jumper wire into the lid switch harness, on the back panel, select the spin cycle, plug the machine cord in, and see if the motor will run( you need to be carefull here, don't shock yourself, and watch out for any moving parts) whn you pull out the knob.
Then, while we have this down and apart, the 1/2 of the coupler that will probably remain on the transmission shaft, can be used to turn the input shaft, in both directions, to check for a seized up transmission or clutch assembly.

It may sound daunting, but it'll only take a few minutes to determine if we have a mechanical failure vs. an electrical problem.

:) :) :)

Frub,

Yes, you'll need to reattach all the wires and connectors back to the control panel switches,timer,etc., the only non connected, connector will be for the lid switch harness.

You're not going to jump the motor, you're going to set that down on the floor or a box or something, with the wire harness attached. You're going to need a short piece of wire(2 or 3 inches long with the insulation stripped off at both ends). You'll insert the bare ends into the 2 openings in the lid switch harness connector that's still attached to the back panel( if you have a 3 wire connector, do not use the opening with the green wire), then you'll put the timer dial in the spin/drain area of the control panel indicator and pull the knob out. The motor should start and run.If it only hums, or runs with a loud noise, or starts to smoke, we'll need to check the motor winding resistances.

Let us know what happens and we can move on from there.

:) :) :)

Frub,

Great job,
So at this point, we're OK electrically and mechanically,

Unsnap and remove the plastic tub cover, look down between the tubs, and see if there is something stuck between the tubs,and remove it.

Reinstall all the parts,except the cabinet and the lid switch, the washer can run with the cabinet off, be careful here, start a wash cycle and observe what happens, and let us know what occurs.

:) :) :)